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How to find a locksmith

Lock work is a hardware problem with a trust problem on top. The price you pay depends on the cylinder count, the grade of hardware, and whether you called an actual local pro — or a national lead-broker that bait-and-switches on arrival.

Local shops, not call centersEvery pro is a brick-and-mortar locksmith with a physical RI or MA address — not a 1-800 line that subcontracts to the lowest bidder.
ALOA-trained where it mattersFor high-security and commercial work we prioritize Associated Locksmiths of America members and pros credentialed in Medeco, Mul-T-Lock, and Assa Abloy product lines.
Smart-lock literateFamiliar with August Wi-Fi, Yale Assure, Schlage Encode, Level Lock, and Kwikset Halo — including the door-prep and Wi-Fi/Z-Wave/Matter integration gotchas.
Marked vehicles, written quotesBranded trucks, named technicians, and a written quote with a per-cylinder breakdown before any drilling starts.
$25–50 to rekey · $150–450 to replaceper cylinder

Daytime house lockout service runs $75–200 all-in for a non-destructive entry; after-hours, holidays, and weekends push that to $150–350. Smart-lock installs land at $250–600 per door installed, hardware included.

Hardware grade (ANSI Grade 1 vs Grade 3), keyway type (standard Kwikset/Schlage vs restricted Medeco/Mul-T-Lock), cylinder count, and whether the door itself needs prep work move price more than anything else.

See what drives price

How we price it

These are the factors that move a quote up or down. Knowing them helps you share the right context upfront so we can quote your specific situation accurately — and so you can compare bids on apples-to-apples scope.

Cylinder count & keying scheme
Primary driver

Almost everything in locksmithing is priced per cylinder. A typical single-family home has 3–6 exterior cylinders (front, back, side, garage entry, mudroom, sometimes a bulkhead). Rekeying all to a single key (keyed-alike) is cheaper than each door on its own key. Master-keyed systems — where you have one key that opens everything and individual keys that open only specific doors — add complexity and cost.

Benchmark:Rekey: $25–50/cylinder · Keyed-alike whole house (4–6 cylinders): $120–250 + service call
Worth asking about: A flat "rekey for $19" quote on the phone that turns into $400 on arrival once the tech "discovers" your locks. Real rekeys are priced per cylinder up-front.
Hardware grade (ANSI Grade 1/2/3)
Primary driver

ANSI/BHMA grades are the universal benchmark. Grade 3 is residential builder-spec — what comes on a tract home — and fails the cycle and impact tests pros consider real security. Grade 2 is mid-tier residential / light commercial. Grade 1 is full commercial-rated: thicker bolts, hardened steel inserts, bump and pick resistance. If you are replacing locks at all, the upgrade from a $45 Kwikset Grade 3 to a $120–180 Schlage B660P Grade 1 deadbolt is the single best dollar you can spend on residential security.

Benchmark:Grade 3 deadbolt: $30–60 hardware · Grade 2: $60–120 · Grade 1: $120–250 · Add $75–150 labor per cylinder installed
Keyway & key control
Secondary

Standard Kwikset, Schlage, and Weiser keyways can be copied at any hardware store kiosk for $3. Restricted keyways like Medeco, Mul-T-Lock MT5+, Abloy Protec2, and Assa Abloy require a signed authorization card and can only be cut by licensed dealers. That is the actual difference between "locked" and "key-controlled" — it matters most when you have employees, tenants, cleaners, dog-walkers, or contractors with key access.

Benchmark:Standard cylinder rekey: $25–50 · Restricted-keyway cylinder install: $150–300 + $8–20 per key cut
Smart-lock integration & door prep
Secondary

A clean retrofit (August Wi-Fi over an existing deadbolt thumbturn) is fast — under an hour, $150–250 labor plus the device. A full Schlage Encode or Yale Assure install requires the existing bore prep to match, a working strike plate, and a battery-powered lock that talks to your hub or router. Doors that were drilled for a 1970s Kwikset often need shimming, new strike plates, or even a new mortise prep to seat a modern smart lock cleanly.

Benchmark:Retrofit smart lock (August): $200–350 installed · Native smart lock (Schlage Encode, Yale Assure): $350–600 installed
Worth asking about: A pro who quotes smart-lock install without asking the brand and model of your existing deadbolt and the door material (wood vs. fiberglass vs. metal-clad) has not measured the actual job.
Time of day & response
Secondary

Daytime lockout service is the cheapest hour the trade has — $75–200 covers travel and a non-destructive entry with a pick set or bypass tool. After-hours (anything after 6pm, before 7am, weekends, holidays) is roughly 1.5–2x. True emergency response — under 30 minutes for someone locked out at midnight with a kid in the car — commands the top of the range, and reasonably so.

Benchmark:Daytime lockout: $75–200 · After-hours: $150–350 · Emergency (<30 min): $200–400
Door & frame condition
Situational

New hardware on a sagging door with a worn strike, split jamb, or rotted frame will not solve the actual security problem. If the deadbolt does not engage fully when the door is closed, the lock grade is irrelevant. Pros should inspect the door alignment, the strike plate (a 3-inch Grade 1 strike with 3-inch screws into the framing is non-negotiable), and the weatherstripping during any deadbolt install.

Lock-out method (non-destructive vs. drill)
Situational

A real locksmith picks, bumps, or bypasses 95%+ of residential locks without damage. Drilling is a last resort for high-security cylinders, broken keys jammed in the cam, or locks with active anti-pick features. If a tech proposes to drill within the first 5 minutes, ask why — and ask what a non-destructive entry would cost instead.

Worth asking about: A tech who drills out a standard $40 Kwikset on a routine lockout and then bills for a replacement lock at 3x retail. That should be a 10-minute pick.

What else might come up

Most projects touch more than one trade. Here's where this one usually overlaps with others — so you can plan ahead instead of scrambling.

Carpentry / door repair
Door sags, jamb is split, frame is rotted, or the deadbolt does not seat fully when the door is closed.

New hardware on a misaligned door is decorative — the bolt does not actually engage the strike. A carpenter shims the hinges, planes the door edge, or rebuilds the jamb so the lock can do its job. Always sequence carpentry before lock install on doors with existing alignment issues.

Electrician
Hardwired smart locks, electrified strikes, mag-locks, or video-doorbell integration with smart-lock unlock.

Most residential smart locks are battery powered and need no electrical work. Commercial-grade access control (electrified strikes, mag-locks, card readers) requires a low-voltage electrician for the transformer, wiring, and integration with the door release.

General contractor or remodeler
Renovations, additions, or door replacements where new exterior doors are being hung.

New door installations are the right moment to specify Grade 1 hardware, reinforced strikes, and a master-keyed plan if you have multiple buildings or units. Coordinating the locksmith with the GC before the doors are hung is much cheaper than retrofitting after.

Security / alarm system installer
Combining smart locks with a monitored alarm system, video doorbell, or whole-home security platform.

Smart locks integrate with most major alarm platforms (ADT, SimpliSafe, Vivint, Ring Alarm). The locksmith handles the hardware and door prep; the alarm installer handles the panel, sensors, and monitoring. Coordinating them ensures the lock state (locked/unlocked) is visible in the alarm app and triggers the right automations.

Property manager / cleaning service coordination
Rental properties, short-term rentals, or homes with frequent contractor or cleaner access.

A keypad smart lock with rotating codes (Schlage Encode, Yale Assure 2) solves the "who has my key" problem and gives you an audit log of who unlocked when. For short-term rentals, integrating with the booking platform (Airbnb, Vrbo) means auto-generated codes per guest.

What to send when you reach out
Send us:
  • What you need: lockout, rekey, new install, smart-lock upgrade, or a combination
  • How many cylinders (count the exterior doors: front, back, side, garage entry, mudroom, bulkhead)
  • Brand/model of existing locks if known (look at the face of the deadbolt — Kwikset, Schlage, Weiser, Baldwin)
  • Photos of each exterior door and lock close-up, including the strike plate side
  • Whether you want all locks keyed alike, or each door on its own key
  • Timeframe — daytime, after-hours, or true emergency
Helps a lot if you know it:
  • Door material (wood, fiberglass, metal-clad) and approximate age
  • For smart locks: your Wi-Fi setup, hub (HomeKit, Alexa, Google, SmartThings), and whether you want keypad-only or app-connected
  • Whether this is a single-family home, rental, multi-family, or commercial property
  • Recent events: just moved in, lost a key, contractor or tenant turnover, break-in attempt
  • Whether you want restricted-keyway / key-control system (for rentals, employees, frequent contractor access)
Worth flagging if you see any of these — they shape the diagnosis:
  • Door is sagging, sticking, or the deadbolt does not fully engage (carpentry probably needed first)
  • Strike plate is loose, screws are pulled, or jamb is split
  • Recent break-in attempt or signs of tampering (pry marks, scratches around the keyway)
  • Lost track of who has keys — old tenants, ex-partners, contractors, cleaners
  • Key is sticking, hard to turn, or sometimes will not work (worn copy-of-a-copy, or cylinder failing)

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