How to find a locksmith
Lock work is a hardware problem with a trust problem on top. The price you pay depends on the cylinder count, the grade of hardware, and whether you called an actual local pro — or a national lead-broker that bait-and-switches on arrival.
Daytime house lockout service runs $75–200 all-in for a non-destructive entry; after-hours, holidays, and weekends push that to $150–350. Smart-lock installs land at $250–600 per door installed, hardware included.
Hardware grade (ANSI Grade 1 vs Grade 3), keyway type (standard Kwikset/Schlage vs restricted Medeco/Mul-T-Lock), cylinder count, and whether the door itself needs prep work move price more than anything else.
See what drives priceHow we price it
These are the factors that move a quote up or down. Knowing them helps you share the right context upfront so we can quote your specific situation accurately — and so you can compare bids on apples-to-apples scope.
Almost everything in locksmithing is priced per cylinder. A typical single-family home has 3–6 exterior cylinders (front, back, side, garage entry, mudroom, sometimes a bulkhead). Rekeying all to a single key (keyed-alike) is cheaper than each door on its own key. Master-keyed systems — where you have one key that opens everything and individual keys that open only specific doors — add complexity and cost.
ANSI/BHMA grades are the universal benchmark. Grade 3 is residential builder-spec — what comes on a tract home — and fails the cycle and impact tests pros consider real security. Grade 2 is mid-tier residential / light commercial. Grade 1 is full commercial-rated: thicker bolts, hardened steel inserts, bump and pick resistance. If you are replacing locks at all, the upgrade from a $45 Kwikset Grade 3 to a $120–180 Schlage B660P Grade 1 deadbolt is the single best dollar you can spend on residential security.
Standard Kwikset, Schlage, and Weiser keyways can be copied at any hardware store kiosk for $3. Restricted keyways like Medeco, Mul-T-Lock MT5+, Abloy Protec2, and Assa Abloy require a signed authorization card and can only be cut by licensed dealers. That is the actual difference between "locked" and "key-controlled" — it matters most when you have employees, tenants, cleaners, dog-walkers, or contractors with key access.
A clean retrofit (August Wi-Fi over an existing deadbolt thumbturn) is fast — under an hour, $150–250 labor plus the device. A full Schlage Encode or Yale Assure install requires the existing bore prep to match, a working strike plate, and a battery-powered lock that talks to your hub or router. Doors that were drilled for a 1970s Kwikset often need shimming, new strike plates, or even a new mortise prep to seat a modern smart lock cleanly.
Daytime lockout service is the cheapest hour the trade has — $75–200 covers travel and a non-destructive entry with a pick set or bypass tool. After-hours (anything after 6pm, before 7am, weekends, holidays) is roughly 1.5–2x. True emergency response — under 30 minutes for someone locked out at midnight with a kid in the car — commands the top of the range, and reasonably so.
New hardware on a sagging door with a worn strike, split jamb, or rotted frame will not solve the actual security problem. If the deadbolt does not engage fully when the door is closed, the lock grade is irrelevant. Pros should inspect the door alignment, the strike plate (a 3-inch Grade 1 strike with 3-inch screws into the framing is non-negotiable), and the weatherstripping during any deadbolt install.
A real locksmith picks, bumps, or bypasses 95%+ of residential locks without damage. Drilling is a last resort for high-security cylinders, broken keys jammed in the cam, or locks with active anti-pick features. If a tech proposes to drill within the first 5 minutes, ask why — and ask what a non-destructive entry would cost instead.
What else might come up
Most projects touch more than one trade. Here's where this one usually overlaps with others — so you can plan ahead instead of scrambling.
New hardware on a misaligned door is decorative — the bolt does not actually engage the strike. A carpenter shims the hinges, planes the door edge, or rebuilds the jamb so the lock can do its job. Always sequence carpentry before lock install on doors with existing alignment issues.
Most residential smart locks are battery powered and need no electrical work. Commercial-grade access control (electrified strikes, mag-locks, card readers) requires a low-voltage electrician for the transformer, wiring, and integration with the door release.
New door installations are the right moment to specify Grade 1 hardware, reinforced strikes, and a master-keyed plan if you have multiple buildings or units. Coordinating the locksmith with the GC before the doors are hung is much cheaper than retrofitting after.
Smart locks integrate with most major alarm platforms (ADT, SimpliSafe, Vivint, Ring Alarm). The locksmith handles the hardware and door prep; the alarm installer handles the panel, sensors, and monitoring. Coordinating them ensures the lock state (locked/unlocked) is visible in the alarm app and triggers the right automations.
A keypad smart lock with rotating codes (Schlage Encode, Yale Assure 2) solves the "who has my key" problem and gives you an audit log of who unlocked when. For short-term rentals, integrating with the booking platform (Airbnb, Vrbo) means auto-generated codes per guest.
- What you need: lockout, rekey, new install, smart-lock upgrade, or a combination
- How many cylinders (count the exterior doors: front, back, side, garage entry, mudroom, bulkhead)
- Brand/model of existing locks if known (look at the face of the deadbolt — Kwikset, Schlage, Weiser, Baldwin)
- Photos of each exterior door and lock close-up, including the strike plate side
- Whether you want all locks keyed alike, or each door on its own key
- Timeframe — daytime, after-hours, or true emergency
- Door material (wood, fiberglass, metal-clad) and approximate age
- For smart locks: your Wi-Fi setup, hub (HomeKit, Alexa, Google, SmartThings), and whether you want keypad-only or app-connected
- Whether this is a single-family home, rental, multi-family, or commercial property
- Recent events: just moved in, lost a key, contractor or tenant turnover, break-in attempt
- Whether you want restricted-keyway / key-control system (for rentals, employees, frequent contractor access)
- Door is sagging, sticking, or the deadbolt does not fully engage (carpentry probably needed first)
- Strike plate is loose, screws are pulled, or jamb is split
- Recent break-in attempt or signs of tampering (pry marks, scratches around the keyway)
- Lost track of who has keys — old tenants, ex-partners, contractors, cleaners
- Key is sticking, hard to turn, or sometimes will not work (worn copy-of-a-copy, or cylinder failing)
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