I just bought a house. Do I really need to rekey?

Yes, every time, without exception. You have no idea how many copies of the previous owner's keys are out there — contractors, cleaners, dog-walkers, the agent, the previous owner's adult kids, the seller's ex. Rekeying is a $120–250 job for a typical 4–6 cylinder house and resets the entire trust model. Do it the week you move in, before the boxes are unpacked.

Should I rekey or replace the locks?

Rekey if the existing hardware is in good shape and at least Grade 2. Replace if the locks are builder-spec Grade 3 Kwiksets and you want a real security upgrade. The math is straightforward: rekey is $25–50 per cylinder; full replacement with Grade 1 hardware is $200–350 per door installed. If you are going to live in the home for 5+ years, the Grade 1 upgrade pays for itself in peace of mind alone.

How do I find a real local locksmith and not a scam call center?

Three checks: (1) Confirm a physical brick-and-mortar address you can drive to — pull it up on Street View, not just Google Maps. (2) Verify the phone number matches a local exchange and matches a long-standing business listing, not a generic "locksmith near me" SEO page. (3) Ask for a written, per-cylinder quote before they dispatch — real pros do this without hesitation. National lead-broker scams fail all three checks. ALOA (Associated Locksmiths of America) maintains a member directory of vetted local pros that is a good starting point.

How much should a lockout really cost?

Daytime, $75–200 all-in for a non-destructive entry on a standard residential lock. After-hours (evenings, weekends, holidays), $150–350. True emergency response under 30 minutes, $200–400. Anything quoted under $50 on the phone is a bait-and-switch — that price covers the trip charge and nothing else. The actual entry will be billed separately, and they will try to drill a lock that should be picked.

Are smart locks actually as secure as a good deadbolt?

The lock body matters more than the smart part. A Schlage Encode (built on a Grade 1 deadbolt platform) is more secure than most builder-grade non-smart deadbolts. A Level Lock+ is essentially a hidden deadbolt with smart guts and an ANSI Grade 2 rating. The weak point of smart locks is usually the door and strike — not the lock itself — and the same is true of dumb deadbolts. Battery life is the practical concern: AA batteries last 6–12 months in most units; set a calendar reminder.

August Wi-Fi vs. Schlage Encode vs. Yale Assure vs. Level Lock — which should I get?

August Wi-Fi (4th gen): retrofit over your existing deadbolt, fast install, keys still work, $200–280 hardware. Best if you rent, are not sure about long-term commitment, or want to keep your existing keyway. Schlage Encode: native Wi-Fi smart deadbolt, Grade 1 lock body, no hub needed, $300 hardware. Best for owners with a square door and standard prep — the most robust mass-market option. Yale Assure 2: similar to Encode, slightly better app and Z-Wave / Matter options, $280–320. Best for homes with a SmartThings or Z-Wave hub. Level Lock+: invisible smart lock (no keypad), Matter support, $330. Best for owners who want to preserve the look of their existing door hardware.

My key is getting harder to turn. Is my lock failing?

Usually the key is failing, not the lock. Most worn-key problems are caused by using a copy-of-a-copy that has drifted from factory spec over time. Have a fresh key code-cut from your original (or from the lock itself if you have the bitting code) and the problem usually goes away. If a fresh code-cut key still sticks, the cylinder pins or springs are worn — at that point a rekey ($25–50) with new pins is the fix. Avoid spraying WD-40 into the keyway; it gums up the pins. Use graphite or a Teflon-based dry lubricant.

What is a "restricted keyway" and do I need one?

A restricted keyway uses a patented key blank that hardware stores cannot duplicate. Brands like Medeco, Mul-T-Lock, and Assa Abloy require a signed authorization card on file with a licensed dealer to cut a new key. For a single-family home with a known set of keyholders, restricted is overkill. For rental properties, short-term rentals, multi-family buildings, small businesses, or any situation where you have lost track of who could have made copies, restricted keyways are how you actually control access. Expect $150–300 per cylinder installed and $8–20 per key cut.

Newport, RI

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How to find a locksmith in Newport, RI

Lock work is a hardware problem with a trust problem on top. The price you pay depends on the cylinder count, the grade of hardware, and whether you called an actual local pro — or a national lead-broker that bait-and-switches on arrival.

Local shops, not call centers — Every pro is a brick-and-mortar locksmith with a physical RI or MA address — not a 1-800 line that subcontracts to the lowest bidder.

ALOA-trained where it matters — For high-security and commercial work we prioritize Associated Locksmiths of America members and pros credentialed in Medeco, Mul-T-Lock, and Assa Abloy product lines.

Smart-lock literate — Familiar with August Wi-Fi, Yale Assure, Schlage Encode, Level Lock, and Kwikset Halo — including the door-prep and Wi-Fi/Z-Wave/Matter integration gotchas.

Marked vehicles, written quotes — Branded trucks, named technicians, and a written quote with a per-cylinder breakdown before any drilling starts.

Get a quote What it usually costs

What to know before you call a locksmith in Newport

Newport has a unique mix of Gilded Age mansions on Bellevue Avenue, colonial-era homes in the Point and Historic Hill, and shingled seasonal cottages along the coast. Many properties are in National Register or local historic districts with strict preservation requirements and original-material expectations.

Newport's island location means direct Atlantic exposure, salt spray, and strong coastal winds. Snowfall averages ~31 inches — less than inland RI — but salt-laden moisture and hurricane/nor'easter exposure cause faster exterior degradation on paint, fasteners, and metal flashing.

How we price it

These are the factors that move a quote up or down. Knowing them helps you share the right context upfront so we can quote your specific situation accurately — and so you can compare bids on apples-to-apples scope.

Cylinder count & keying scheme

Primary driver

Almost everything in locksmithing is priced per cylinder. A typical single-family home has 3–6 exterior cylinders (front, back, side, garage entry, mudroom, sometimes a bulkhead). Rekeying all to a single key (keyed-alike) is cheaper than each door on its own key. Master-keyed systems — where you have one key that opens everything and individual keys that open only specific doors — add complexity and cost.

Benchmark:Rekey: $25–50/cylinder · Keyed-alike whole house (4–6 cylinders): $120–250 + service call

Worth asking about: A flat "rekey for $19" quote on the phone that turns into $400 on arrival once the tech "discovers" your locks. Real rekeys are priced per cylinder up-front.

Hardware grade (ANSI Grade 1/2/3)

Primary driver

ANSI/BHMA grades are the universal benchmark. Grade 3 is residential builder-spec — what comes on a tract home — and fails the cycle and impact tests pros consider real security. Grade 2 is mid-tier residential / light commercial. Grade 1 is full commercial-rated: thicker bolts, hardened steel inserts, bump and pick resistance. If you are replacing locks at all, the upgrade from a $45 Kwikset Grade 3 to a $120–180 Schlage B660P Grade 1 deadbolt is the single best dollar you can spend on residential security.

Benchmark:Grade 3 deadbolt: $30–60 hardware · Grade 2: $60–120 · Grade 1: $120–250 · Add $75–150 labor per cylinder installed

Keyway & key control

Secondary

Standard Kwikset, Schlage, and Weiser keyways can be copied at any hardware store kiosk for $3. Restricted keyways like Medeco, Mul-T-Lock MT5+, Abloy Protec2, and Assa Abloy require a signed authorization card and can only be cut by licensed dealers. That is the actual difference between "locked" and "key-controlled" — it matters most when you have employees, tenants, cleaners, dog-walkers, or contractors with key access.

Benchmark:Standard cylinder rekey: $25–50 · Restricted-keyway cylinder install: $150–300 + $8–20 per key cut

Smart-lock integration & door prep

Secondary

A clean retrofit (August Wi-Fi over an existing deadbolt thumbturn) is fast — under an hour, $150–250 labor plus the device. A full Schlage Encode or Yale Assure install requires the existing bore prep to match, a working strike plate, and a battery-powered lock that talks to your hub or router. Doors that were drilled for a 1970s Kwikset often need shimming, new strike plates, or even a new mortise prep to seat a modern smart lock cleanly.

Benchmark:Retrofit smart lock (August): $200–350 installed · Native smart lock (Schlage Encode, Yale Assure): $350–600 installed

Worth asking about: A pro who quotes smart-lock install without asking the brand and model of your existing deadbolt and the door material (wood vs. fiberglass vs. metal-clad) has not measured the actual job.

Time of day & response

Secondary

Daytime lockout service is the cheapest hour the trade has — $75–200 covers travel and a non-destructive entry with a pick set or bypass tool. After-hours (anything after 6pm, before 7am, weekends, holidays) is roughly 1.5–2x. True emergency response — under 30 minutes for someone locked out at midnight with a kid in the car — commands the top of the range, and reasonably so.

Benchmark:Daytime lockout: $75–200 · After-hours: $150–350 · Emergency (<30 min): $200–400

Door & frame condition

Situational

New hardware on a sagging door with a worn strike, split jamb, or rotted frame will not solve the actual security problem. If the deadbolt does not engage fully when the door is closed, the lock grade is irrelevant. Pros should inspect the door alignment, the strike plate (a 3-inch Grade 1 strike with 3-inch screws into the framing is non-negotiable), and the weatherstripping during any deadbolt install.

Lock-out method (non-destructive vs. drill)

Situational

A real locksmith picks, bumps, or bypasses 95%+ of residential locks without damage. Drilling is a last resort for high-security cylinders, broken keys jammed in the cam, or locks with active anti-pick features. If a tech proposes to drill within the first 5 minutes, ask why — and ask what a non-destructive entry would cost instead.

Worth asking about: A tech who drills out a standard $40 Kwikset on a routine lockout and then bills for a replacement lock at 3x retail. That should be a 10-minute pick.

Project sizes we handle

Three scopes that cover almost everything in this trade. We'll help you place your project on the right tier based on the property, what you've already tried, and how long you plan to stay.

Rekey existing hardware

$25–50/cylinder + $50–100 service call

Pop the cylinders, swap the pins, cut new keys to match. The hardware stays — only the key combination changes. The right call after closing on a new home, after losing a key, or after a tenant moves out. Does NOT upgrade the lock grade or replace worn hardware.

New pin kit matched to your existing keyway (Kwikset KW1, Schlage SC1)
2–4 freshly cut keys per cylinder
Light lubrication (graphite or Teflon-based — not WD-40)

Best for: Standard residential security needs where the hardware is in good shape and Grade 2 or better. Universal advice after buying a home.

Grade 1 deadbolt + reinforced strike

$200–350/door installed

Full hardware swap to ANSI Grade 1 (Schlage B660P, Kwikset 980-series, Medeco Maxum). Reinforced strike plates with 3-inch screws into the stud, not just the jamb. Adds 30+ minutes of forced-entry resistance per door — which is the actual security threshold that matters.

Schlage B660P or Kwikset 980 Grade 1 deadbolt
3-inch Grade 1 box strike with 3-inch screws
Door wrap or reinforcement plate on hollow doors
Optional: matching Grade 1 keyed lever set

Best for: Owners who want a meaningful security upgrade without committing to a key-control program. The default upgrade we recommend.

High-security or smart-lock system

$400–800/door installed

Either restricted-keyway high-security (Medeco Maxum, Mul-T-Lock MT5+, Assa Abloy) for key control, OR a connected smart-lock system (Schlage Encode, Yale Assure 2, Level Lock+) for code-based access, audit logs, and remote management. Often both — Medeco on the front door, smart locks on the daily-use doors.

Medeco Maxum or Mul-T-Lock MT5+ for restricted keyway
Schlage Encode, Yale Assure 2 (Wi-Fi or Z-Wave), or Level Lock+ (Matter)
Door reinforcement: full-length strike, hinge-side reinforcement
Optional: video doorbell integration (Ring, Nest)

Best for: Owners with rental properties, frequent contractor access, short-term rental units, or multi-family buildings where key control or remote access is the real problem to solve.

What we reach for and why

The materials and techniques behind a job that lasts — so you know what's in the quote and why it's there.

ANSI Grade 1 deadbolts

material

Schlage B660P, Kwikset 980-series, and Medeco Maxum are the workhorses. Grade 1 means the lock survives 1,000,000 cycles, two strikes from a 75-lb battering ram, and pick/drill resistance testing. Builder-spec Grade 3 fails most of those at the first hit.

Pro tip: The biggest practical security upgrade for $200 is not a fancier lock — it is a Grade 1 strike plate with 3-inch screws driven into the framing stud, not just the jamb. Most break-ins succeed because the strike pulls out of the soft jamb.

Restricted keyways (Medeco, Mul-T-Lock, Assa)

material

Restricted keyways cannot be duplicated at a hardware store kiosk. Each key blank is patented and tracked; only authorized dealers can cut them, and only with a signed authorization card. This is key control — the real answer to "who has a key to my building".

Pro tip: Restricted is overkill for most single-family homes. It becomes meaningful when you have rental units, employees, frequent cleaners or contractors, or a short-term rental where you do not know who has copied a key.

Bump-resistant pinning

technique

Standard pin tumbler locks can be opened with a "bump key" in seconds by anyone who has watched a YouTube video. Bump-resistant pins (spool and serrated drivers) make this dramatically harder. Almost all Grade 1 deadbolts include bump-resistant pinning; almost no Grade 3 builder hardware does.

Pro tip: When rekeying, ask the pro to install bump-resistant pin sets even on standard keyways. It is a $5–15 upcharge per cylinder and closes the easiest attack vector for residential locks.

Smart locks — retrofit vs. native

approach

Retrofit smart locks (August Wi-Fi) sit on top of your existing deadbolt and turn the thumbturn from outside via motor. Your existing keys still work. Native smart locks (Schlage Encode, Yale Assure 2, Level Lock+) replace the entire deadbolt with a keypad/Wi-Fi/battery unit. Retrofits preserve your keyway and are reversible; natives give cleaner UX and tighter integration with HomeKit/Alexa/Google but require door prep.

Pro tip: If you rent or are not sure you want a smart lock long-term, start with an August retrofit. If you are committed and your door is square and the bore is standard, a Schlage Encode is a better long-term install.

Non-destructive entry

technique

Pick sets, bump keys, bypass tools (auto jiggler, under-door tools, knob shanks). A trained locksmith opens 95%+ of residential locks this way in under 5 minutes. Drilling out a cylinder is a last resort reserved for high-security locks, broken keys, or locks with anti-pick features.

Pro tip: If a tech walks up with a drill before they have tried a pick set, that is your cue to ask hard questions. Drilling means a new cylinder — and that is where bait-and-switch scammers run up the bill.

Key cutting & duplication

technique

Code-cut keys (cut to factory specifications from a numeric code, not by copying an existing key) are sharper, more accurate, and reduce wear on the cylinder. Copy-of-a-copy keys drift over time and eventually stop working — this is usually why an old lock "stops" working with your key. Restricted keyways are always code-cut.

Pro tip: Keep a known-good original key in a safe and only use copies day-to-day. When the copies start sticking, get fresh copies cut from the original — not from another copy.

Door reinforcement (strike, hinge, wrap)

technique

The single most overlooked piece of residential security. A Grade 1 deadbolt with stock 3/4-inch jamb screws pulls out under one kick. Upgrades: 3-inch Grade 1 box strike with 3-inch screws to the framing, hinge-side reinforcement (Door Armor, StrikeMaster), and a door wrap on hollow-core or pre-split doors.

Pro tip: Have the pro check the hinge side too. About 1 in 3 break-in attempts go for the hinge side because builders use 3/4-inch screws on hinges too. Swap them out for 3-inch screws — $2 in hardware.

What to watch for

A short list of the things that actually matter for safety, code, and your peace of mind. Worth confirming with any pro before you sign — we expect these questions and we're happy you ask.

Out-of-state "$15 lockout" national call center

This is the biggest scam in the trade. A Google search for "locksmith near me" surfaces ads from national lead-brokers (often based in NY, NJ, or out of country) that pose as local with fake addresses. They quote $15–35 over the phone, dispatch an untrained subcontractor in an unmarked car, drill a lock that should have been picked, then bill $300–900 cash on arrival. Confirm a physical local address you can drive to, a branded vehicle, and a written quote before they leave their shop. Better Business Bureau, the FTC, and ALOA have warned about this pattern for over a decade.

No physical business address or only a Google Maps pin

A legitimate locksmith has a brick-and-mortar shop you can walk into — even if most work is mobile. If the company has no verifiable address, no shop, and refuses to give one, that is the call-center pattern. Ask for an address, then look it up on Street View. A UPS Store mailbox or empty lot is the tell.

Unmarked vehicle and no company shirt/ID

Real locksmiths show up in branded vehicles with company logos, wear company gear, and carry an ID. They will tell you their name and the company name before approaching your door. An unmarked car and a tech who cannot say which company dispatched them is the bait-and-switch playbook.

Cash-only, no receipt, no written invoice

Legitimate businesses accept cards, provide written invoices with the company name, license number (where required), date, scope, and itemized parts and labor. Cash-only with no paperwork means there is no recourse when the work fails — and no record for your homeowners insurance if something goes wrong.

Quotes a flat fee over the phone, then triples it on arrival

The phone quote ($19, $29, $49) is the hook. On arrival the tech "discovers" the lock is high-security, the cylinder needs to be drilled, the keyway is uncommon — and the bill becomes $300–900. Real pros give you a per-cylinder breakdown over the phone with a clear service-call minimum. If the on-site quote is more than 1.5x the phone quote, stop the work and call someone else.

Proposes to drill the lock as the first option on a routine lockout

A trained locksmith picks, bumps, or bypasses standard residential locks without damage in under 5 minutes. Drilling is reserved for high-security cylinders, broken keys jammed in the cam, or locks with active anti-pick features. Drill-first on a standard Kwikset means either the tech is not actually trained or they want to bill for a new cylinder. Ask them to try non-destructive entry first.

No discussion of door condition, strike plate, or hardware grade

Lock work that ignores the door, the strike, and the jamb is decorative. A pro doing a deadbolt install or upgrade should look at how the door closes, check whether the deadbolt fully engages, inspect the strike plate, and recommend a 3-inch strike with 3-inch screws if the existing one is short. If they are swapping a cylinder without looking at anything else, you are paying for a sticker and not security.

What else might come up

Most projects touch more than one trade. Here's where this one usually overlaps with others — so you can plan ahead instead of scrambling.

Carpentry / door repair

— Door sags, jamb is split, frame is rotted, or the deadbolt does not seat fully when the door is closed.

New hardware on a misaligned door is decorative — the bolt does not actually engage the strike. A carpenter shims the hinges, planes the door edge, or rebuilds the jamb so the lock can do its job. Always sequence carpentry before lock install on doors with existing alignment issues.

Electrician

— Hardwired smart locks, electrified strikes, mag-locks, or video-doorbell integration with smart-lock unlock.

Most residential smart locks are battery powered and need no electrical work. Commercial-grade access control (electrified strikes, mag-locks, card readers) requires a low-voltage electrician for the transformer, wiring, and integration with the door release.

General contractor or remodeler

— Renovations, additions, or door replacements where new exterior doors are being hung.

New door installations are the right moment to specify Grade 1 hardware, reinforced strikes, and a master-keyed plan if you have multiple buildings or units. Coordinating the locksmith with the GC before the doors are hung is much cheaper than retrofitting after.

Security / alarm system installer

— Combining smart locks with a monitored alarm system, video doorbell, or whole-home security platform.

Smart locks integrate with most major alarm platforms (ADT, SimpliSafe, Vivint, Ring Alarm). The locksmith handles the hardware and door prep; the alarm installer handles the panel, sensors, and monitoring. Coordinating them ensures the lock state (locked/unlocked) is visible in the alarm app and triggers the right automations.

Property manager / cleaning service coordination

— Rental properties, short-term rentals, or homes with frequent contractor or cleaner access.

A keypad smart lock with rotating codes (Schlage Encode, Yale Assure 2) solves the "who has my key" problem and gives you an audit log of who unlocked when. For short-term rentals, integrating with the booking platform (Airbnb, Vrbo) means auto-generated codes per guest.

$25–50 to rekey · $150–450 to replaceper cylinder

Daytime house lockout service runs $75–200 all-in for a non-destructive entry; after-hours, holidays, and weekends push that to $150–350. Smart-lock installs land at $250–600 per door installed, hardware included.

Hardware grade (ANSI Grade 1 vs Grade 3), keyway type (standard Kwikset/Schlage vs restricted Medeco/Mul-T-Lock), cylinder count, and whether the door itself needs prep work move price more than anything else.

See what drives price

What we show up with

The equipment we bring is part of what separates a real job from a shortcut. Here's what to expect on a typical visit.

Pick set & tension wrench

Non-destructive entry on standard pin tumbler locks. A trained locksmith picks most residential locks in under 5 minutes.

Bump key set

Faster than picking on standard keyways for routine lockouts. Works only on non-bump-resistant pin sets.

Key cutting machine (code-cut capable)

Cuts keys to factory bitting codes rather than by copying an existing key — sharper, more accurate, less cylinder wear.

Pinning kit (Kwikset KW1, Schlage SC1, and others)

Rekey existing cylinders by swapping pin combinations. Mobile pros carry kits for the 5–8 most common keyways.

Plug follower & shim set

Hold pin chambers in place while the plug is removed for rekeying. The boring but essential piece of every rekey.

Auto jiggler / bypass tools (under-door, knob shank, slim jim)

Non-destructive bypass for specific lock types and lockout scenarios — opens many residential locks without engaging the cylinder at all.

Cordless drill with chrome-vanadium bit set

Last-resort destructive entry on high-security cylinders, broken keys in the cam, or locks with active anti-pick features. Reserved for jobs that genuinely cannot be picked.

How a job goes

Phone intake & written quote

5–10 min

You describe what you need: lockout, rekey, new install, smart lock. Pro gives a per-cylinder breakdown, a service-call fee, and a realistic ETA in writing (text or email). No "we will see when we get there" — that is the scam pattern.

What you see: A written quote with company name, address, license number where required, and an itemized scope before the truck leaves the shop.

On-site arrival & verification

10–15 min

Tech arrives in a branded vehicle, in company gear, with an ID. They walk the doors with you, confirm cylinder count, inspect existing hardware, check door alignment and strike plates, and confirm the quote on site — or explain in writing if anything has changed (rarely should).

What you see: A walk-around inspection, photos of existing hardware, and a confirmation of the scope before any work starts.

Non-destructive entry (lockouts only)

5–15 min

For lockouts: pick or bump the lock, or use a bypass tool. 95%+ of residential lockouts are resolved this way in under 5 minutes with no damage. Drilling only if the pro can explain why non-destructive will not work on this specific cylinder.

What you see: A pick set and tension wrench at the keyway, or a bump key. The door opens; your existing lock and key still work.

Rekey, replace, or install

20 min/cylinder (rekey) · 45–60 min/door (replacement or smart lock)

For rekeys: cylinders come out, plugs are pulled, pins swapped to a new combination, new keys cut. For replacement: old hardware removed, new Grade 1 deadbolt installed with reinforced strike and 3-inch screws into framing. For smart locks: existing deadbolt removed, new unit installed, batteries seated, paired to Wi-Fi/hub, and tested.

What you see: Cylinders disassembled on a clean cloth, fresh pins set, new keys cut on site, every cylinder tested with all new keys before the pro leaves.

Door & strike check

10–15 min

Every new install or replacement includes verifying the deadbolt seats fully when the door is closed, the strike plate is reinforced (3-inch box strike, 3-inch screws into framing), and hinges are inspected for hinge-side reinforcement. Adjustments made on the spot.

What you see: The pro opening and closing each door, checking bolt engagement, swapping short screws for 3-inch screws on strikes and hinges.

Paperwork, keys, and warranty

5–10 min

Written invoice with itemized parts and labor. New keys handed over with a count of how many copies you have (usually 3–4 per cylinder). Warranty terms for hardware (manufacturer, usually 1–25 years) and labor (90 days standard). For smart locks: app setup walkthrough and battery-replacement reminder.

What you see: A printed or emailed invoice, your new keys, and a brief walkthrough of any smart-lock app or warranty registration.

What to send when you reach out

Send us:

What you need: lockout, rekey, new install, smart-lock upgrade, or a combination
How many cylinders (count the exterior doors: front, back, side, garage entry, mudroom, bulkhead)
Brand/model of existing locks if known (look at the face of the deadbolt — Kwikset, Schlage, Weiser, Baldwin)
Photos of each exterior door and lock close-up, including the strike plate side
Whether you want all locks keyed alike, or each door on its own key
Timeframe — daytime, after-hours, or true emergency

Helps a lot if you know it:

Door material (wood, fiberglass, metal-clad) and approximate age
For smart locks: your Wi-Fi setup, hub (HomeKit, Alexa, Google, SmartThings), and whether you want keypad-only or app-connected
Whether this is a single-family home, rental, multi-family, or commercial property
Recent events: just moved in, lost a key, contractor or tenant turnover, break-in attempt
Whether you want restricted-keyway / key-control system (for rentals, employees, frequent contractor access)

Worth flagging if you see any of these — they shape the diagnosis:

Door is sagging, sticking, or the deadbolt does not fully engage (carpentry probably needed first)
Strike plate is loose, screws are pulled, or jamb is split
Recent break-in attempt or signs of tampering (pry marks, scratches around the keyway)
Lost track of who has keys — old tenants, ex-partners, contractors, cleaners
Key is sticking, hard to turn, or sometimes will not work (worn copy-of-a-copy, or cylinder failing)

Send your info

Permits, timing, and what's local to Newport

Permits & regulations

Newport's Historic District Commission reviews exterior changes in designated areas before a building permit can issue, with very limited substitutions for original wood, slate, and copper. Coastal properties within 200 ft of tidal features fall under CRMC (Coastal Resources Management Council) jurisdiction alongside city review.

Permit authority: Newport Building & Inspections (https://www.newportri.gov/departments/zoning-inspections)

What's local to Newport

Salt-air corrosion is the dominant maintenance driver — fasteners, electrical disconnects, HVAC condensers, and exterior paint all run shorter service lives than inland.