How to hire an interior painter
A paint job that lasts 8–12 years is mostly about prep — the hours spent scraping, sanding, caulking, and priming before any color goes on. Understand the prep scope and you understand the bid.
Interior walls only run $2–4/sqft of wall; add ceilings/trim/doors and you are at $3.50–7/sqft of floor area. Exterior siding runs $1.50–5/sqft depending on substrate. Cabinet refinishing is priced per door at $100–250/door, spray finish at the top of that range.
Surface prep — not paint quality — drives 60–70% of the cost variance. A house that needs scraping, patching, and caulking takes roughly twice the labor of a clean repaint, regardless of what brand goes in the sprayer.
See what drives priceHow we price it
These are the factors that move a quote up or down. Knowing them helps you share the right context upfront so we can quote your specific situation accurately — and so you can compare bids on apples-to-apples scope.
Prep is 30–50% of the labor on most paint jobs and 80%+ on a peeling exterior. Scraping loose paint runs $1–3/sqft, sanding $0.50–1.50/sqft, patching $5–25/repair, priming $0.75–1.50/sqft. Ask your pro to walk you through the prep scope — what gets scraped, sanded, caulked, and primed. The bid that wins on price alone often has less prep in it; make sure you are comparing the same scope.
Two coats is the warrantable standard for nearly every premium paint — Aura, Regal, Emerald, Duration all require it. One coat is acceptable when you are repainting the exact same color over a sound, primed surface, though you lose some film build (paint life is roughly proportional to film thickness). "One-coat coverage" claims on the can refer to hiding power, not to warranty terms — worth a quick conversation with your pro about what makes sense for your job.
Premium paint ($75–95/gal) costs about 2–3x contractor-grade ($25–40/gal) but is a smaller share of total cost than homeowners expect. On a $5,000 interior job, the paint itself is $400–800. Upgrading from ProMar 200 to Emerald or Aura adds roughly $300–500 to the bill and roughly doubles the wear life. Premium is worth it for high-traffic walls and moisture-prone rooms (kitchens, baths, hallways). For low-traffic rooms, builder-grade is fine. Ask the pro to walk through which rooms benefit most.
Smooth drywall sprays fast. Heavy stucco, cedar shingles, T1-11, and clapboard with deep reveals all eat material and time. Exterior height past 16 ft means staging, scaffold rental, or lift rental — $400–1,200/day added to the job. Cathedral ceilings, stairwells, and decorative trim all add ladder time, which is the most expensive kind of labor. Confirm with your pro how they plan to access upper stories — boom lift, scaffold, or pump jacks — so you know it is budgeted properly.
In MA and RI, any work that disturbs 6 sqft interior or 20 sqft exterior of painted surface on a pre-1978 home triggers RRP containment requirements — plastic, HEPA vacuums, certified workers, dust testing. This is federal law (with MA and RI running their own enforcement) and adds roughly $0.50–1.50/sqft to the job. If your home is pre-1978, expect your pro to ask the build year up front and include RRP line items in the quote — this is the right way to do the work and protects your family from lead exposure.
Going from a dark red to a soft white usually needs a tinted primer plus two finish coats — effectively three coats. Going from off-white to a similar off-white is two coats and done. Deep saturated colors (true red, true yellow, navy) almost always need three coats regardless of base color because the pigment loads are low. Share your color plan with the pro up front so they can scope coat count accurately.
Interior trim runs $1–3/linear foot to paint. Doors run $50–125/door (both sides + jamb). Detailed crown, beadboard, and built-ins eat hours that flat walls do not. A "whole house repaint" that includes all trim and doors can be 2x the walls-only quote — make sure the scope explicitly states what is included so the bid matches what you have in mind.
What else might come up
Most projects touch more than one trade. Here's where this one usually overlaps with others — so you can plan ahead instead of scrambling.
Painting over rotten wood seals in the moisture and accelerates failure. A good painter will pause, call in a carpenter for rot replacement, and resume once the substrate is sound. Plan for $300–1,200 of carpentry on most older exterior jobs.
Patching nail pops and minor cracks is included in most paint scopes. Full skim-coating, plaster crack stitching, or large drywall replacement is separate work ($2–5/sqft) — painting over unrepaired cracks just makes them more visible.
Paint failure in a vertical streak is usually a water problem, not a paint problem. Fix the gutter overflow, kick-out flashing, or window head flashing before repainting or the new paint fails in the same spot within 18 months.
Old wood-sash windows usually need glazing compound re-bedded and sash cords replaced as part of an exterior repaint. Many painters can re-glaze; some specialize in it. Ask explicitly — painting over failing glazing means water gets into the muntins and the sash rots within a few years.
Original hinges and pulls are off the cabinets for a week during refinish — perfect window to upgrade to soft-close hinges and new pulls. Doing it after, you risk paint chips on a fresh finish. Budget $15–35 per hinge pair, $5–25 per pull.
- Build year of the home (pre-1978 triggers RRP — affects price and legal scope)
- Square footage and number of rooms for interior, or footprint and story count for exterior
- Photos of any peeling, water stains, soft wood, or cracked plaster you have seen
- What is included — walls only, walls + ceilings, walls + ceilings + trim, doors, closets
- Color plan — same color, color change, or "still deciding" (changes coat count)
- Last time it was painted and with what (if you know the brand/line)
- Photos of cabinet doors if cabinet work is in scope (count + door style)
- Access notes — porch furniture to move, landscaping near siding, attic/basement access
- Whether you will be living there during the work (affects scheduling, fumes, dust control)
- For exteriors: substrate type (clapboard, cedar shingle, vinyl, stucco, fiber cement)
- Peeling paint in vertical streaks (water intrusion — fix the source first)
- Soft or spongy wood at sills, fascia, or trim (rot — needs carpentry before paint)
- White chalk on your hand when you rub the siding (chalking — needs power wash + bonding primer)
- Brown/yellow stains bleeding through interior paint (tannin, smoke, or water — needs BIN primer)
- A pre-1978 build year with peeling or chipping paint (lead-safe RRP is mandatory)
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