My basement leaks during heavy rain. Do I need a French drain?

Probably not as the first move. Roughly 60% of wet-basement calls in southern New England are solved by extending downspouts 6+ ft from the foundation and correcting negative grade in the first 6 ft of perimeter — total cost $400–$2,500. Do that first, run a hose test, and see if the seepage stops. If water still enters after the upstream fixes, then a French drain or exterior waterproofing makes sense as the next step.

Interior perimeter system vs. exterior waterproofing — which is right?

Exterior waterproofing (dig to footing, dimple membrane, new footing drain) is the textbook fix because it stops water at the wall. It is more expensive ($90–$250/lf vs. $50–$120/lf interior), requires excavation, and is impossible when a deck, garage, or lot-line obstruction blocks access. Interior systems manage water that has already reached the foundation — legitimately the right call when exterior is blocked or the foundation is fieldstone weeping at the floor-wall joint. For a poured-concrete wall with correctable upstream causes, exterior is usually the durable answer.

How long does a French drain last?

Built right with SDR-35 perforated pipe, 3/4" washed stone, and non-woven geotextile filter fabric: 20–30 years. Built wrong with corrugated pipe, crushed-run stone, and no fabric (or landscape fabric instead): 3–8 years before fines clog the stone and the drain stops working. The materials cost difference is usually $5–$10/lf — small relative to the labor and excavation, and the lifespan difference is the deciding factor over the long run.

Do I need a permit for drainage work in RI or MA?

Yard French drains and downspout extensions usually do not require a building permit if depth is under 24" and the work is fully on your own property. Excavation against the foundation, discharge into the public right-of-way, or any work within a wetlands buffer (200 ft in RI under CRMC, 100 ft in MA under the Wetlands Protection Act) requires a permit or order of conditions. Dig Safe (811) is always required, free, and takes 3 business days. Ask the pro to handle permitting and to reference it explicitly in the contract.

My yard has standing water after every rain. Is that a drainage problem or a soil problem?

Both, usually. Standing water 24+ hours after rain means the soil cannot absorb it (heavy clay, compaction, or a high water table) and there is no surface flow path to carry it away. A swale ($1,500–$5,000) cut across the wet area can route surface water to daylight or a dry well. For deeper saturation, a yard French drain ($30–$65/lf) intercepts groundwater. Soil amendment alone rarely solves persistent puddling in heavy clay — you need a flow path.

How much does a sump pump install cost?

$800–$2,500 for a standard install: pit dug into the basement slab, perforated liner, cast-iron pump (Zoeller, Liberty, or comparable), check valve, discharge line to daylight or street, dedicated 15A GFCI circuit if not already present. Battery backup adds $300–$800 and is the upgrade that matters most — power outages often coincide with the storms that fill the pit. A $200 plastic big-box pump can be installed for less, but lifespan is 2–4 years vs. 10–15 for the cast-iron unit.

Will fixing the grade really stop my basement from leaking?

In a majority of cases on poured-concrete foundations with correctable grade and downspout problems: yes. Water reaches the foundation primarily as surface flow (rain hitting the ground within 6 ft of the wall) and as roof runoff dumped directly at the foundation by short downspouts. Move both away from the wall — regrade the perimeter to 5% slope, extend every downspout 6+ ft — and the hydrostatic pressure against the wall drops dramatically. Run a hose test after the fix to verify. If water still enters, the cause is something the grade fix could not address (failed footing drain, high water table, fieldstone foundation) and a system is warranted.

What is the difference between waterproofing and damp-proofing?

Damp-proofing is the asphaltic spray-on coating most foundations get during new construction — it slows moisture vapor but does not resist hydrostatic pressure (standing water against the wall). Waterproofing is a true barrier — dimple membrane, self-adhered sheet membrane, or heavily-applied elastomeric coating — that resists liquid water under pressure. If your house is leaking, you almost certainly have damp-proofing that has failed or was never adequate. Real waterproofing is what gets installed during exterior remediation.

East Providence, RI

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How to fix drainage problems in East Providence, RI

Most wet-basement quotes start with a $12,000 interior system. Most wet basements get fixed for $400 in downspout extensions and a half-day of regrading. The job of a good drainage pro is to diagnose the water path first, then sell you only the system you actually need.

Diagnosis before system — Every quote starts with a downpour walkthrough or hose test — we identify where water enters before recommending a French drain, sump, or exterior membrane.

Licensed for excavation in RI & MA — Foundation waterproofing and outlet-pipe work require a registered home-improvement contractor (RI CRB / MA HIC) plus a Dig Safe ticket on every excavation — both are baseline.

Wetlands-aware outlet planning — Outlet pipes that daylight within 200 ft of a wetland trigger RI CRMC or MA Wetlands Protection Act review. We site discharge points to clear the buffer or pull the order of conditions before digging.

Grade-first, not system-first — We solve roughly 60% of "wet basement" calls with downspout extensions, grade correction, and yard swales — no interior system, no excavation against the foundation.

Get a quote What it usually costs

Professional drainage service in New England

What to know about drainage problems in East Providence

East Providence is a mix of early-1900s colonials, capes, and ranches across Rumford, Riverside, and Kent Heights, with Phillipsdale featuring older mill-worker housing. Many Rumford homes are turn-of-the-century with original windows; Riverside has more 1940s–1960s post-war construction near the water.

East Providence sits on the Providence River and Narragansett Bay shoreline, with coastal humidity, salt air, and routine winter freeze-thaw. Sabin Point and Riverside neighborhoods get direct wind exposure off the bay.

How we price it

These are the factors that move a quote up or down. Knowing them helps you share the right context upfront so we can quote your specific situation accurately — and so you can compare bids on apples-to-apples scope.

Diagnosis: where the water is actually coming from

Primary driver

This is the entire ballgame. A seep through a poured-concrete wall at floor level during heavy rain is usually a grade or downspout problem ($400–$2,500 fix). The same seep through a horizontal crack mid-wall, or weeping mortar joints in a fieldstone foundation, is a hydrostatic-pressure problem that needs an exterior membrane or interior perimeter system ($8,000–$25,000). Ask any pro to walk you through what they think is happening before they quote a system — the answer should be specific to your symptoms.

Benchmark:Diagnostic visit $0–$350 · Camera scope of existing pipe $200–$450

Worth asking about: A quote for an interior perimeter system without first checking exterior grading, downspout discharge points, and whether existing footing drains are blocked.

System selected (and whether it matches the diagnosis)

Primary driver

Yard French drain to intercept surface water: $30–$65/lf. Exterior foundation waterproofing (dig to footing, dimple membrane, new footing drain, backfill with stone): $90–$250/lf of perimeter. Interior perimeter system (jackhammer slab edge, drain tile to sump): $50–$120/lf of basement perimeter. The interior route is the easiest to install and the most heavily marketed, but it manages water that has already reached your foundation rather than keeping it away.

Benchmark:Yard French drain $30–$65/lf · Exterior waterproofing $90–$250/lf · Interior perimeter $50–$120/lf · Sump pump $800–$2,500 installed

Discharge point & distance to daylight

Secondary

A French drain or sump is only as good as where the water goes. A property with daylight 30 ft from the house and a 4% grade is easy — solid 4" SDR-35 PVC, trench, done. A flat lot with no daylight needs a dry well ($800–$2,500) or a pump-up to street ($1,500–$4,000) plus the original system. If discharge falls within a wetlands buffer (200 ft in RI, 100 ft in MA), permitting adds $500–$3,000 and 4–12 weeks before excavation can start.

Benchmark:Solid PVC to daylight $8–$15/lf · Dry well $800–$2,500 · Wetlands order of conditions $500–$3,000

Worth asking about: No identified discharge point in the quote. "We will figure it out during excavation" means the trench gets dug and then the bill changes — get the discharge plan in writing before any backhoe arrives.

Excavation depth & access

Secondary

Yard French drains are 18–24" deep — a mini-excavator job. Exterior foundation waterproofing means digging to the footing (typically 7–9 ft for a full basement), which requires a full-size excavator, shoring on deep trenches, and respect for OSHA trench safety. Tight side yards where the machine cannot fit add hand-dig labor or hydrovac time. A walkout basement is the cheap case; a 9-ft full basement with a deck blocking the back wall is the expensive one.

Benchmark:Yard depth (18–24") $30–$65/lf · Full foundation depth (7–9 ft) $90–$250/lf · Hand-dig premium 2–3x machine rate

Soil type & water table

Secondary

Sandy loam drains itself and is forgiving. Heavy clay (common in eastern MA and parts of RI) holds water at the foundation no matter what you do upstream — interior systems and footing drains become more justified. A high seasonal water table (within 2–3 ft of the basement slab) means a sump pump is mandatory regardless of which exterior fix you pick. Ask the pro to verify the soil from a test hole before they quote a French drain — gravel layout changes by soil.

Benchmark:Sandy soil $30–$45/lf French drain · Clay soil $45–$65/lf (more stone, more fabric)

Permits, inspections, and erosion control

Situational

Most yard French drains under 24" deep do not require a building permit, but discharge into the public right-of-way usually does ($75–$300). Exterior foundation work near a property line or in a wetlands buffer triggers conservation commission review. Erosion control (silt fence, hay bales) is required on most excavations over a certain disturbance area and runs $200–$600. Dig Safe (811) tickets are free but mandatory — never skipped.

Benchmark:Building permit $75–$300 · Conservation review $500–$3,000 · Erosion control $200–$600

Worth asking about: Outlet pipe daylighting near a stream, pond, or wetland with no permit referenced in the contract. RI CRMC and MA Wetlands Protection Act penalties hit the property owner, not just the contractor.

Sump pump quality & battery backup

Situational

A $150 big-box sump pump and a $1,200 Zoeller cast-iron pump look identical on a quote line that just says "sump pump." The cast-iron unit lasts 10–15 years; the plastic unit lasts 2–4. Battery backup ($300–$800 installed) keeps the pump running through the power outages that often accompany the storms causing the flood — without it, you have an expensive system that fails exactly when it matters. Ask which pump model is being installed and whether backup is included.

Benchmark:Pump $150–$1,200 · Backup battery system $300–$800 · Water-powered backup $400–$900

Project sizes we handle

Three scopes that cover almost everything in this trade. We'll help you place your project on the right tier based on the property, what you've already tried, and how long you plan to stay.

Grade & downspout correction (the upstream fix)

$400–$2,500 total project

Extend every downspout 6–10 ft from the foundation with solid 4" SDR-35 PVC to daylight or splash blocks. Regrade the first 6 ft around the foundation to a minimum 6" drop (5% slope). Add a swale if the back yard pitches toward the house. Verified with a hose test on completion. This is the fix that resolves a majority of "wet basement" calls and is often skipped in favor of more expensive systems.

Solid 4" SDR-35 PVC for downspout extensions to daylight
Loam + compaction for regrading first 6 ft of perimeter
Concrete splash blocks at every downspout discharge
Pop-up emitters for daylight termination at lawn level

Best for: Any basement seepage event before you commit to an interior or exterior system. This is the diagnostic baseline — solve it here if you can.

Yard French drain or curtain drain

$30–$65/lf installed (typical project $2,500–$8,000)

Trench 18–24" deep across the uphill side of the house, lined with non-woven filter fabric, backfilled with 3/4" washed stone around 4" perforated SDR-35 pipe, daylit to a discharge point. Intercepts groundwater and surface flow before it reaches the foundation. Pairs well with sump pump install at $800–$2,500 if there is no daylight.

4" perforated SDR-35 PVC (not flimsy black corrugated — corrugated crushes and clogs)
3/4" washed stone (not crushed run — fines clog the pipe)
Non-woven geotextile filter fabric (Mirafi 140N or equivalent)
Pop-up emitter or daylight termination

Best for: Properties where surface water or shallow groundwater is reaching the foundation from an uphill direction. Often the right call for sloped lots, properties downhill from neighbors, or yards with chronic standing water.

Exterior foundation waterproofing

$90–$250/lf of perimeter (typical single-elevation $8,000–$22,000; full perimeter $25,000–$60,000)

Excavate to the footing on the affected elevation(s), pressure-wash and seal any wall cracks, apply a dimple membrane (Delta-MS, CCW Miradri, or Tremco Tuff-N-Dri) from footing to grade, install or replace the footing drain in 3/4" stone wrapped in fabric, backfill with free-draining material, regrade. This is the textbook fix — it stops water at the wall instead of managing it after it gets in. Interior perimeter systems are the alternative when access prohibits exterior work (finished landscaping, deck, garage, neighbor at lot line).

Delta-MS dimple membrane (8-mm HDPE, 30+ year service life)
CCW Miradri 860/861 self-adhered sheet membrane for serious water
4" perforated SDR-35 footing drain in 3/4" stone, wrapped in Mirafi fabric
Free-draining backfill (stone or coarse sand) for the lower 2–3 ft of the trench

Best for: Active water entering through foundation walls (cracks, weeping joints, fieldstone), failed or absent original footing drain, finished basement you intend to keep finished. The right call when grade and downspouts have already been corrected and water is still getting in.

What we reach for and why

The materials and techniques behind a job that lasts — so you know what's in the quote and why it's there.

Grade-first diagnosis

approach

Before any system gets quoted, the pro should walk the property in or after a heavy rain (or run a hose test) to identify where water enters. The first 6 ft of grade should drop 6" minimum away from the foundation. Every downspout discharge should be 6+ ft from the wall. If either is wrong, fix it first and re-evaluate — most "chronic" seepage stops once these two are corrected.

Pro tip: Ask the pro for a copy of any photos or notes from the hose test. The diagnosis is the most valuable part of the visit; you should be able to reference it later or share with a second opinion.

Solid PVC vs. corrugated black pipe

material

Smooth-wall SDR-35 PVC is the standard for solid downspout extensions and discharge lines — it does not crush, does not clog with sediment as easily, and is rated for the burial depths these jobs require. Corrugated black ADS pipe is cheaper and faster to install but the ridges trap debris and the wall thickness crushes under freeze-thaw or yard traffic. Spend the extra $2–$4/lf for SDR-35 on anything you do not want to dig up again.

Pro tip: For the perforated pipe inside a French drain trench, use perforated SDR-35 (rigid) over corrugated whenever you can fit it. It is more expensive but does not crush and the holes do not silt over as fast.

Filter fabric (non-woven geotextile)

material

A French drain without filter fabric is a French drain you will dig up in 5–8 years when fines clog the stone and pipe. Wrap the entire stone column in non-woven geotextile (Mirafi 140N, US Fabrics 135NW, or equivalent) — it lets water through while keeping silt out. Material is $0.15–$0.40/sqft; skipping it is the single most common shortcut on a yard French drain bid.

Pro tip: Ask the bidder to specify the filter fabric brand and weight on the quote. "Fabric included" without a product name often means landscape fabric, which clogs in 1–2 seasons.

Dimple membrane vs. spray-applied waterproofing

material

For exterior foundation waterproofing, dimple membrane (Delta-MS, Platon) is the durable answer — 8-mm HDPE with raised dimples that create an air gap against the wall, letting any moisture migrate down to the footing drain. Spray-applied rubberized asphalt (Tuff-N-Dri, Tremco) is more commonly used and is fine when the wall is stable, but cracks in the foundation will telegraph through the coating. Membrane resists cracking, costs roughly $2–$5/sqft more material.

Pro tip: On a fieldstone or rubble foundation, spray-applied is the only practical option (membrane cannot conform to irregular stone). On a poured-concrete wall, dimple membrane is the upgrade worth asking about.

Sump pump sizing & discharge

technique

A residential sump pump should be 1/3 to 1/2 HP for typical loads, cast-iron housing for longevity, and a check valve in the discharge line so water does not fall back into the pit when the pump shuts off. Discharge needs to terminate 10+ ft from the foundation and ideally daylight to a swale — pumping into a downspout that drains back to the foundation is a closed loop. Battery backup is the upgrade that matters: power outages often coincide with the storms that fill the pit.

Pro tip: Ask which pump model and HP, what the discharge route is, and whether a check valve and battery backup are included. A line item that just says "sump pump install $1,800" can be a $200 plastic pump or an $800 Zoeller — those are very different systems.

Swales & surface regrading

technique

A swale is a shallow shaped channel in the lawn (typically 12–24" wide, 6–12" deep, gentle side slopes) that intercepts surface flow and routes it around or past the house to a discharge point. Often a better answer than a French drain when the problem is sheet flow across the lawn during heavy rain — cheaper to build, easier to maintain, no pipes to clog. Built with a mini-excavator, shaped by hand, seeded with grass or planted as a rain garden.

Pro tip: A well-built swale is invisible once the grass grows in — neighbors should not be able to spot it. If a yard slopes toward the house, a swale 8–12 ft uphill of the foundation can solve it without ever touching the basement.

Interior perimeter systems (when to use them)

approach

Jackhammer a 12" channel around the inside perimeter of the basement slab, install perforated drain tile in stone, tie into a sump pit, repour concrete. Manages water that has already reached the foundation rather than keeping it away. Legitimately the right answer when exterior excavation is impossible (deck, attached garage, lot-line obstruction) or when the foundation is a fieldstone wall actively weeping at the floor-wall joint. Often the wrong answer for a poured-concrete wall with correctable grade and downspout problems.

Pro tip: If the pro recommends interior perimeter without first checking exterior grade, downspout extensions, and whether the existing footing drain is functional, get a second opinion before signing. The interior route is the most heavily marketed option in the industry.

What to watch for

A short list of the things that actually matter for safety, code, and your peace of mind. Worth confirming with any pro before you sign — we expect these questions and we're happy you ask.

Quotes an interior perimeter system without inspecting exterior grading and downspouts

Interior perimeter systems are $8,000–$25,000 and treat the symptom. Many wet-basement calls are solved by $400–$2,500 in grade correction and downspout extensions. Any pro skipping the exterior walk before quoting the most expensive system has the diagnostic order reversed — ask them to start outside.

No discharge point identified in the contract

A French drain, sump pump, or footing drain is only as good as where the water goes. "We will daylight it out back" without a marked location, distance, and pipe type is a quote that can change once the trench is open. Get the discharge plan — location, pipe spec, termination type, distance from foundation — written into the contract before excavation starts.

Outlet pipe daylighting in a wetlands buffer with no permit referenced

RI CRMC regulates within 200 ft of coastal features and freshwater wetlands; MA Wetlands Protection Act regulates within 100 ft of bordering vegetated wetlands. Discharging stormwater into a buffer without an order of conditions exposes the property owner to fines and a forced restoration order. Any quote near a wetland should reference the permit pathway explicitly.

Specifies corrugated black ADS pipe for a buried discharge line

Corrugated pipe crushes under freeze-thaw cycles and clogs with sediment trapped in the ridges. SDR-35 smooth-wall PVC costs $2–$4/lf more and lasts decades longer. On a job where the trench will be 4–6 ft deep, the labor to redo it dwarfs the material savings — the pipe spec should be SDR-35 on anything that is not the temporary surface section.

No mention of filter fabric, or "landscape fabric" specified instead of non-woven geotextile

A French drain without proper non-woven geotextile (Mirafi 140N or equivalent) will silt up in a few seasons — the fines wash into the stone, then into the pipe, and the drain stops working. Landscape fabric is not rated for subsurface drainage and clogs even faster. The bidder should name the fabric brand and weight; if they cannot, they may not be using it.

Sump pump line item with no pump brand, HP, or backup spec

A $1,800 "sump pump install" can be a $200 plastic pump that fails in 2 years or an $800 Zoeller cast-iron unit that lasts 15. Battery backup is the most important add-on (power often goes out during the storms that fill the pit) and is frequently omitted from base quotes. Ask for the pump model, HP, check valve, discharge route, and whether backup is included — these are normal, fair questions and any pro will answer them.

No Dig Safe (811) ticket on any excavation

Dig Safe is free and legally required for any excavation in RI and MA — it marks gas, electric, water, sewer, and telecom lines before digging. A contractor who skips it puts your property at risk of utility strikes and exposes themselves to substantial fines. Ask for the ticket number before excavation starts; legitimate pros expect the question.

What else might come up

Most projects touch more than one trade. Here's where this one usually overlaps with others — so you can plan ahead instead of scrambling.

Gutter cleaning & repair

— Before any drainage quote, and whenever a wet basement complaint comes up.

Clogged gutters or undersized downspouts dump roof runoff at the foundation — the upstream cause of a large share of basement seepage calls. A good drainage pro will ask about gutter condition and downspout extensions before quoting a system; if they do not, you should.

Foundation repair

— When inspection finds active wall cracks, bowing walls, or step-cracking in block foundations.

Drainage manages water; it does not stabilize a moving wall. Horizontal cracks, displacement at the top of the wall, or block walls bowing inward need structural evaluation before the waterproofing membrane goes on. Sequence: structural fix first, drainage second.

Landscaping & regrading

— When grade against the foundation is flat or negative, or yard pitches toward the house.

Regrading the first 6 ft of perimeter to a 5% slope away from the foundation is the cheapest, highest-ROI drainage improvement available. Landscapers handle the lawn and bed reshape, drainage pros handle anything that requires a French drain or sub-grade pipe. Often a coordinated job.

Basement waterproofing companies (interior systems)

— When exterior excavation is genuinely impossible (attached garage, deck, lot line) or when fieldstone walls weep at the floor-wall joint and exterior membrane will not solve it.

Interior perimeter systems are a legitimate tool when external access is constrained or the foundation type rules out exterior fixes. They are the wrong tool when the cause is upstream and correctable. A second opinion is reasonable before committing to a $12,000+ interior system.

Sump pump electrical & battery backup

— Any sump install or replacement.

A sump pump needs a dedicated GFCI-protected 15A circuit and ideally a battery backup or water-powered backup. An electrician handles the dedicated circuit if one does not exist; the drainage pro handles the pit, pump, and discharge. Confirm the backup is included or scoped separately — the storm that fills the pit is often the one that takes out the power.

$30–$65 (French drain) · $90–$250 (exterior foundation)per linear foot

Yard French drains run $30–$65/lf installed. Exterior foundation waterproofing runs $90–$250/lf of perimeter (excavation to footing + membrane + footing drain). Interior basement perimeter systems run $3,000–$15,000 for a typical home. Sump pump install runs $800–$2,500 depending on pit, discharge, and battery backup. Downspout extensions and regrading — the upstream fix — run $400–$2,500 and resolve most cases.

The biggest swing is which system the property actually needs. Interior perimeter systems are 5–10x the cost of grade and downspout work but get sold as the default. Soil type (clay vs. sandy loam), discharge distance to daylight, and excavation depth move the rest.

See what drives price

What we show up with

The equipment we bring is part of what separates a real job from a shortcut. Here's what to expect on a typical visit.

Mini-excavator (typically Kubota KX040 or Bobcat E35)

Standard for yard French drain trenches and most yard regrading. Fits through a 36" gate, reaches 8 ft deep, and disturbs less lawn than a backhoe. Hand-dig is reserved for the last 2–3 ft against the foundation.

Full-size excavator (CAT 305 or Bobcat E50 class)

Required for exterior foundation waterproofing — needs to reach 7–9 ft to the footing on a full basement. Brings a different price profile (transport, larger operator footprint, lawn restoration after).

Laser level (rotary or pipe laser)

Sets and verifies pipe slope (minimum 1% / 1/8" per foot fall) over long runs. Critical for French drain and discharge pipe — without it, low spots in the pipe collect water and silt instead of flowing.

Borescope / drain camera

Inspects existing footing drains and underground discharge pipes for collapse or clogging. Often the first diagnostic before quoting a new system — if the original drain is just clogged, hydro-jetting fixes it for a fraction of replacement cost.

Hydro-jetter (1,500–4,000 PSI)

Clears silt, root intrusion, and debris from existing footing drains and underground PVC. Sometimes restores function to a 30-year-old footing drain that was assumed to be failed.

Trench shoring or trench box

OSHA requires protection on any trench 5 ft or deeper. Foundation waterproofing trenches at 7–9 ft must be shored, sloped, or shielded — non-negotiable for crew safety and a sign of a serious contractor.

Hose & flow meter (or just a garden hose)

DIY-able

Hose test on the affected wall section — flood the suspect area with water and watch where it enters. The cheapest and most reliable diagnostic tool in the trade. Any homeowner can do this themselves before calling for quotes.

How a job goes

Diagnostic site visit

45–90 min

Pro walks the property exterior and interior, ideally during or right after a heavy rain. Inspects grade in first 6 ft of foundation, downspout discharge points, gutter condition, visible cracks, sump pump (if any), and any standing water in the yard. Runs a hose test on the affected wall section. Documents findings in writing or with photos.

What you see: The pro outside in the rain (or running a hose), pointing at downspouts, checking grade with a level, asking when and where water enters and how long it has been happening.

Diagnosis & options

20–30 min

Pro walks you through what they think is causing the water entry, supported by what they observed. Lays out options in order — usually grade and downspout correction first, then yard French drain if the upstream fix is not enough, then exterior or interior waterproofing if the system fixes are not enough. Each option has a cost and an expected outcome.

What you see: A specific diagnosis ("water is coming in at the floor-wall joint on the north wall because the downspout terminates 18" from the foundation and the grade pitches toward the house") and a tiered set of options — not a single quote for the most expensive system.

Permits, Dig Safe, and discharge planning

3–10 business days for permit lead time

For any excavation: Dig Safe 811 ticket pulled (3 business days). If outlet pipe terminates in a wetlands buffer or public right-of-way, the appropriate permit (RI CRMC, MA Conservation Commission, or town DPW) is filed. Discharge point is marked physically on the property before any digging starts.

What you see: A printed Dig Safe ticket, marking flags or paint on the lawn for buried utilities, and (for wetland-adjacent work) reference to the conservation order in the contract.

Excavation & system install

1 day (yard French drain, single elevation) up to 1–2 weeks (full perimeter exterior waterproofing)

Yard French drain: mini-excavator trenches 18–24" deep, fabric laid, stone placed, pipe set on grade with laser level, more stone, fabric wrap, soil cover. Exterior foundation: full-size excavator to footing, wall cleaned and sealed, membrane applied, footing drain installed in stone, free-draining backfill. Interior perimeter: jackhammer slab edge, perforated tile in stone, sump pit, repour concrete.

What you see: A trench (or open excavation), exposed pipe and fabric before backfill so you can verify materials, and the pro shaping the bottom of the trench with a laser to confirm slope.

Backfill, restoration, and water test

2–6 hours

Trench backfilled in lifts, compacted, topsoil restored, seed or sod laid. Pro tests the system with a hose at every downspout and the affected wall area, verifies water exits at the discharge, and confirms no surface ponding. For interior systems, sump pump is cycled and discharge is verified clear of the foundation.

What you see: Water running into the system at one end and exiting at the discharge point on schedule, with no surface puddling along the trench line.

Report, warranty, and follow-up

15–30 min

Written summary: what was found, what was installed (pipe spec, fabric brand, membrane product, pump model), where the discharge terminates, what the warranty covers and for how long. Most reputable pros offer 5-year workmanship on French drains and 10-year (or transferable lifetime) on exterior waterproofing. Follow-up check after the next heavy rain is a sign of a serious contractor.

What you see: A written report you can reference later or share with a future buyer, photos of the install before backfill, and a clear ask to call after the next big storm.

What to send when you reach out

Send us:

Photos or short video of where water enters — wall location, floor seam, window well, slab crack
When it happens — every heavy rain, only after snowmelt, year-round seepage, one-time event
How long it has been going on and whether it is getting worse
Age of the home, foundation type (poured concrete, block, fieldstone), and basement finish status
Whether there is an existing sump pump and whether it runs during storms

Helps a lot if you know it:

A sketch or photo of the yard showing slope direction, downspout discharge points, and where standing water collects
Whether neighbors uphill have drainage systems or chronic water issues
Distance to the nearest wetland, stream, pond, or shoreline (matters for outlet permitting)
Recent landscaping or hardscape changes (new patio, deck, retaining wall, regrading)
Any prior drainage or waterproofing work — what was installed, by whom, and what it cost

Worth flagging if you see any of these — they shape the diagnosis:

Active water entering during or right after rain (vs. high-humidity condensation, which is a different fix)
Horizontal cracks in foundation walls or visible bowing (structural concern, not just drainage)
Sump pump running continuously or cycling on every few minutes during dry weather (high water table)
Standing water in the yard 24+ hours after rain (saturated soil, possible compaction or clay layer)
Outlet pipe or discharge near a wetland, stream, or shoreline (permitting required)

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Permits, timing, and what's local to East Providence

Permits & regulations

Permits are issued by the East Providence Building Inspection Division on the second floor of City Hall (Taunton Ave). The division enforces the RI State Building Code plus local minimum-housing and zoning ordinances; permits route through the statewide e-permitting portal.

Permit authority: East Providence Building Inspection Division (https://eastprovidenceri.gov/departments/building-inspection)