Newport, RI
☢️

How to mitigate radon in Newport, RI

Radon is a measurement problem before it is a contracting problem. Test first, design the system to your foundation, and confirm with a post-mitigation test — anything else is guessing with a fan.

NRPP / NRSB certifiedTesters and mitigators carry National Radon Proficiency Program or National Radon Safety Board certification — the two EPA-recognized credentials.
Foundation-specific designBasement slab, slab-on-grade, crawlspace, and fieldstone foundations each need a different mitigation approach. We do not install a one-size system.
Post-mitigation test includedEvery system install includes a follow-up short-term test to verify the result is below 2 pCi/L — not just under the 4 pCi/L action level.
Higher-risk geology in RI & MASouthern New England has elevated radon potential (EPA Zone 1 in much of the region). Roughly 1 in 4 homes tests above the action level.

What to know about radon mitigation in Newport

Newport has a unique mix of Gilded Age mansions on Bellevue Avenue, colonial-era homes in the Point and Historic Hill, and shingled seasonal cottages along the coast. Many properties are in National Register or local historic districts with strict preservation requirements and original-material expectations.

Newport's island location means direct Atlantic exposure, salt spray, and strong coastal winds. Snowfall averages ~31 inches — less than inland RI — but salt-laden moisture and hurricane/nor'easter exposure cause faster exterior degradation on paint, fasteners, and metal flashing.

How we price it

These are the factors that move a quote up or down. Knowing them helps you share the right context upfront so we can quote your specific situation accurately — and so you can compare bids on apples-to-apples scope.

Foundation type
Primary driver

Poured-concrete basement with good sub-slab aggregate is the simplest install — one suction point through the slab, sealed PVC riser, exterior fan. Slab-on-grade homes need careful suction-point siting because there is no basement to route through. Crawlspaces need a sealed membrane (encapsulation) tied into the suction system. Fieldstone or rubble foundations cannot be depressurized at the slab — they require a different approach, usually block-wall depressurization or full crawlspace encapsulation, and cost roughly 1.5–2x a standard install.

Benchmark:Poured basement $1,200–2,500 · Slab-on-grade $1,800–3,200 · Crawlspace (encapsulation + SSD) $2,500–4,500 · Fieldstone $3,000–5,500
Number of suction points
Primary driver

A single 4-inch suction point covers most homes up to about 2,000 sqft of slab if the sub-slab aggregate communicates well. Larger footprints, slabs poured in sections, or homes with interior footings that block airflow under the slab need additional suction points. Each additional point adds roughly $300–600 — pipe, coring, sealant, and labor.

Benchmark:Each additional suction point: $300–600 installed
Worth asking about: A bid that quotes a single suction point on a 3,000+ sqft slab without doing a sub-slab communication test is guessing. Ask how they verified one point will pull from the whole slab.
Fan routing & exterior vs. interior runs
Secondary

Code (ANSI/AARST RMS-SF 2023) requires the fan to be outside the conditioned envelope — exterior wall, attic, or garage, never in a basement or living space. A clean exterior run up the side of the house is the cheapest and most accessible. Routing through an interior chase, up through closets, and out through the roof is more labor and looks better but adds $400–900. Aesthetics matter more on the front elevation than the back.

Benchmark:Exterior wall route: included. Interior chase to roof: +$400–900.
Sump pit integration & sealing
Secondary

An open sump pit is a giant radon entry point. If you have one, it must be sealed with an airtight cover (gasketed, with grommets for the pump cord and discharge line) and tied into the mitigation system. Done right, your sump pit becomes a free second suction point. Done wrong, your sump pump fails because the cover blocks float-switch access. Confirm the mitigator uses a serviceable cover with a removable inspection port.

Benchmark:Sealed sump cover with integration: $150–300 added
Pre-mitigation test method
Secondary

Short-term charcoal kits ($15–35) are cheap, mailed in, and adequate for a baseline screening — but they are vulnerable to "closed-house" violations and weather swings. Continuous radon monitors (CRMs) deployed for 48+ hours by a certified tester ($150–300) give you hour-by-hour readings, tamper detection, and a defensible result for real estate transactions. For any home where you are deciding whether to mitigate, the CRM test is worth it.

Benchmark:Mail-in short-term kit: $15–35 · Professional CRM test (48 hr): $150–300 · Long-term alpha-track (90+ days): $30–60
Post-mitigation verification
Situational

A legitimate install includes a post-mitigation short-term test 24 hours to 30 days after the fan is energized. EPA action level is 4 pCi/L; the practical mitigation target is below 2 pCi/L. If the post-test comes back at 3.5 pCi/L, technically you are "under the action level" but the system is underperforming and the mitigator should adjust (add a suction point, swap to a higher-static-pressure fan) at no charge.

Benchmark:Post-mitigation test: $0 (should be included) · Target result: <2 pCi/L
Worth asking about: No post-mitigation test included means you are paying for a system without confirming it works. Walk away.
Fan selection & noise
Situational

RadonAway RP series and Festa AMG series are the industry standards. Fan model is sized to the suction needed (RP145 for tight slabs, RP265 for loose aggregate, larger for crawlspaces). A correctly sized and properly isolated fan is barely audible from inside. Vibration coming through the riser into the living space means the fan is rigidly coupled to the PVC — a soft rubber coupling at the fan inlet and outlet fixes it.

Benchmark:Fan replacement (every 8–12 years): $300–550 installed

Project sizes we handle

Three scopes that cover almost everything in this trade. We'll help you place your project on the right tier based on the property, what you've already tried, and how long you plan to stay.

Standard SSD on poured basement
$1,200–2,500

Single 4-inch suction point through the basement slab, 3-inch or 4-inch PVC riser up an interior wall and out through the rim joist, exterior-mounted RadonAway RP145 or RP265 fan, vertical discharge above the eave. U-tube manometer installed at the riser to confirm the fan is pulling vacuum. Post-mitigation short-term test included.

  • Schedule 40 PVC, 3" or 4"
  • RadonAway RP145 / RP265 fan
  • U-tube manometer
  • Polyurethane sealant at slab penetration

Best for: Most poured-concrete basements in single-family homes up to ~2,500 sqft footprint, with a single accessible exterior wall for the riser.

Multi-point SSD or sump-integrated system
$2,200–3,800

Two or more suction points (or one suction point plus an airtight, integrated sump cover), interior PVC routing up through a closet chase to an attic-mounted fan and roof penetration, balanced for even airflow. Includes pre-install sub-slab communication test to verify suction-point siting. Sealed sump pit with serviceable inspection port. Post-mitigation CRM test (48-hour) instead of short-term charcoal.

  • RadonAway RP265 or Festa AMG500
  • Schedule 40 PVC with sweep elbows
  • Gasketed sump cover with pump-cord grommet
  • Pre-install smoke test for sub-slab communication

Best for: Homes with 2,500+ sqft slabs, interior footings that segment the sub-slab area, finished basements where exterior routing is undesirable, or homes with an existing sump.

Crawlspace encapsulation + SSD or fieldstone solution
$2,500–5,500

For crawlspaces: 12+ mil reinforced vapor barrier (e.g. Stego Wrap, Viper CS) covering the entire floor and partway up walls, all seams taped and sealed, perforated suction line under the membrane, tied into a dedicated fan. For fieldstone or rubble foundations: block-wall depressurization or perimeter sub-membrane system, often with multiple suction points. Includes long-term alpha-track confirmation (90 days) in addition to the short-term post test.

  • 12-mil+ reinforced poly vapor barrier
  • Sealing tape rated for vapor barriers (e.g. PolyShield)
  • Perforated sub-membrane suction piping
  • Block-wall depressurization piping for fieldstone
  • Long-term alpha-track detector for verification

Best for: Crawlspaces, fieldstone or rubble foundations, homes with mixed foundation types (e.g. partial basement + crawlspace), or homes that tested above 10 pCi/L where you want maximum reduction.

What we reach for and why

The materials and techniques behind a job that lasts — so you know what's in the quote and why it's there.

Sub-slab depressurization (SSD)
approach

The dominant method for basements and slab-on-grade homes. A fan pulls a slight negative pressure under the slab, intercepting radon-laden soil gas before it enters the home and venting it above the roofline. When the foundation supports it, SSD reduces indoor radon by 90%+ — typically from 10–20 pCi/L down to below 2.

Pro tip: Ask the mitigator how they will verify sub-slab communication before drilling the final suction-point location. A smoke test (smoke pencil at a test hole while the fan runs) or a vacuum-pressure differential reading is the right answer.
Crawlspace encapsulation as mitigation
technique

A reinforced 12+ mil vapor barrier sealed at the perimeter and at every seam, with perforated suction piping run beneath it, tied to a dedicated mitigation fan. The membrane is both the radon barrier and a moisture barrier — pulling double duty against rot and mold. Cheap polyethylene (6-mil construction plastic) is not adequate; specify a reinforced cross-laminated product like Stego Wrap or Viper CS.

Pro tip: If you are encapsulating anyway for moisture control, get the radon piping installed at the same time even if you are not mitigating yet. Adding a fan and connecting it later is a $400 retrofit; opening the encapsulation later to add piping is a $1,500+ rework.
Block-wall depressurization (BWD)
technique

Used on hollow concrete-block (CMU) or fieldstone foundations where you cannot effectively depressurize under the slab. Suction is pulled from inside the hollow block cores or the wall cavity, intercepting radon before it enters the basement air. Often paired with SSD on the slab and capping the top course of block.

Pro tip: Fieldstone foundations are the hardest case. If you are quoted a standard SSD on a fieldstone basement, get a second opinion — the gaps in the stone wall will short-circuit the suction and the system will read fine on the manometer while doing nothing for radon levels.
RadonAway RP-series fans
material

The default mitigation fan in the US. RP145 for tight, low-permeability slabs (high static pressure, lower airflow). RP265 for typical residential. RP380 for crawlspaces or loose aggregate. Listed lifespan is 8–12 years; most fail in the 10-year range and should be replaced before they stop pulling vacuum (the manometer will show the drift before you smell anything).

Pro tip: Ask the mitigator to label the fan with the install date and the model. When it needs replacement, you (or any future radon pro) can swap in the same model in under an hour without re-engineering the system.
U-tube manometer
material

A simple water-filled gauge installed at the PVC riser that shows the fan is pulling vacuum. The two water columns should be at unequal heights whenever the fan is running. If they level out, the fan has failed or the system is leaking — check before you assume the system is working. Every code-compliant install requires one.

Pro tip: Take a phone photo of the manometer reading right after install. That is your baseline. If the differential drops over time (water columns level), the fan is degrading. Photo every 6 months — it is the cheapest system monitor you have.
PVC routing & sealed penetrations
technique

Schedule 40 PVC (3" or 4") with sweep elbows for airflow, not standard plumbing 90s. Slab penetration sealed with polyurethane sealant (not silicone — it does not bond to concrete reliably). Discharge must be at least 10 feet above grade, 10 feet from any window or air intake, and terminate above the eaveline. Codes vary on horizontal vs. vertical discharge — RI and MA both require vertical termination above the roof or eave.

Pro tip: If the riser runs through a finished living space, ask the mitigator to wrap it in fiberglass insulation inside a soffit chase. Without insulation you get condensation dripping inside the chase in winter when warm soil gas hits cold pipe in cold rooms.
Sealed sump pit cover
material

Polycarbonate or polyethylene cover with a foam gasket, sealed to the rim of the sump pit with polyurethane sealant or butyl tape. Grommeted penetrations for the sump-pump power cord and discharge line, plus a removable inspection port so the pump can still be serviced. Done right, it doubles as a second suction point and adds zero ongoing maintenance.

Pro tip: Confirm the cover has an inspection port large enough to pull the pump for replacement. Some cheap covers seal completely and force you to break the seal (and pay to re-seal it) every time the pump needs service.

What to watch for

A short list of the things that actually matter for safety, code, and your peace of mind. Worth confirming with any pro before you sign — we expect these questions and we're happy you ask.

No NRPP or NRSB certification
These are the two EPA-recognized credentials for radon professionals. RI and MA do not have state-specific radon licensing for mitigators, but national certification is the floor. Ask for the certification number and look it up at nrpp.info or nrsb.org — it takes 30 seconds and confirms the pro has passed the proficiency exam and carries the required insurance.
No post-mitigation test included
A system that has not been verified is a system you cannot trust. Every reputable install includes a follow-up short-term test (24 hours to 30 days post-install) confirming the result is below 2 pCi/L. If the post-test is "an upgrade," walk away — you are paying for a fan, not a mitigation system.
No warranty on the system or fan
Standard practice is a 5-year warranty on the installed system and a separate manufacturer warranty on the fan (RadonAway is 5 years). Anyone offering less, or only a 30/60/90-day warranty, is not standing behind the install. Get it in writing.
Audible fan noise or vibration inside the living space
A correctly installed fan should be inaudible from inside the home. Vibration transmitted through the PVC riser means the fan is rigidly coupled — fixable with rubber isolation couplings at the inlet and outlet. A mitigator who shrugs off post-install noise complaints did not isolate the fan properly during install and should come back to fix it under warranty.
Fan installed inside the basement or conditioned space
ANSI/AARST RMS-SF 2023 (the consensus code most jurisdictions follow) explicitly prohibits fan placement inside the conditioned envelope. If the fan develops a leak — which they all do eventually — it would pressurize your basement with the radon-laden gas it is supposed to be exhausting. Fan goes in the attic, garage, or outside. No exceptions.
Quote based on a single short-term test without verifying conditions
Short-term charcoal kit results swing widely with weather and whether the house was actually closed up during the test. Before committing to a $2,000+ system, confirm with a 48-hour CRM test (closed-house conditions verified) or a second short-term kit. Real estate transaction tests should always be CRM with a certified tester to prevent tampering disputes.

What else might come up

Most projects touch more than one trade. Here's where this one usually overlaps with others — so you can plan ahead instead of scrambling.

Home inspection
During a home purchase, especially in EPA Zone 1 areas like RI and most of MA.

Radon testing is a standard inspection add-on ($150–300) and one of the most common deal items in southern New England. If you are buying, get a 48-hour CRM test during the inspection window. If you are selling, pre-testing and remediating before listing avoids price negotiations later.

Sump pump installation or replacement
When you have a sump pit and are mitigating, or when you are adding a sump and might mitigate later.

A sealed sump cover is part of the radon system. If you are replacing the pump, do it before the radon install so the mitigator can integrate a serviceable cover. If you are installing a new sump in a home that might need mitigation, scope it with a sealed-cover-ready design.

Crawlspace encapsulation
Crawlspace homes with elevated radon or chronic moisture.

Encapsulation is both the moisture fix and the radon barrier. Combining the jobs saves $500–1,000 versus doing them separately, and the radon piping has to go under the membrane — so it has to be installed at the same time as the encapsulation.

Electrician
When the mitigation fan needs a dedicated circuit.

The fan runs 24/7 and should be on its own switched circuit (or a dedicated, labeled breaker) so the homeowner can de-energize it for service without killing other loads. Some installs use an existing exterior outlet, but a dedicated circuit is the cleaner solution and adds $250–450.

Foundation waterproofing
When the basement has active water entry and elevated radon.

Water and radon enter through the same cracks and joints. Sealing the cove joint, repairing foundation cracks, and routing groundwater (interior drain tile, exterior waterproofing) reduces both. Done together, the radon system has less infiltration to fight and the basement is dry.

$1,200–2,500per system

A standard sub-slab depressurization (SSD) system on a poured-concrete basement runs $1,200–2,500. Short-term test kits run $15–35 mail-in; a professional continuous-monitor test is $150–300. Fieldstone foundations, crawlspaces, and multi-suction-point installs push the system into the $2,500–4,500 range.

The dominant cost drivers are foundation type, the number of suction points needed, the fan routing path through the house, and whether your existing sump pit needs to be sealed and integrated.

See what drives price

What we show up with

The equipment we bring is part of what separates a real job from a shortcut. Here's what to expect on a typical visit.

Continuous radon monitor (CRM)

Hour-by-hour radon readings with tamper detection. Used for pre-install testing, post-mitigation verification, and real estate transactions. Sun Nuclear 1028 and Femtotech RDS-30 are the workhorses.

Short-term charcoal test kit
DIY-able

Passive 2–7 day exposure cartridge mailed to a lab. The standard baseline screening tool for homeowners. Cheap, broadly accurate, vulnerable to closed-house violations.

U-tube manometer

Water-filled differential pressure gauge installed at the PVC riser. Confirms the fan is pulling vacuum at a glance. Required by ANSI/AARST code on every install.

Smoke pencil / chemical smoke generator

Tests sub-slab communication during the design phase. Smoke at a test hole should be drawn toward the planned suction point when the fan runs — confirms one point will pull from the whole slab.

Core drill (4" diamond bit)

Cuts the suction-point hole through 4–6 inches of concrete slab cleanly without cracking. Wet drilling controls dust. A hammer drill and chisel is not an acceptable substitute on a finished basement.

RadonAway RP-series fan

The fan that actually does the work. Sized to the foundation: RP145 for tight slabs, RP265 for typical residential, RP380 for crawlspaces. 8–12 year service life.

Polyurethane sealant

Seals the slab penetration around the suction-point pipe and seals the cove joint and any visible slab cracks. Bonds to concrete, stays flexible — silicone does not work here.

How a job goes

1

Pre-mitigation test & diagnostic visit

60–90 min

Confirm the radon level with a 48-hour CRM test if not already done. On the diagnostic visit, the mitigator walks the foundation, identifies the slab type, locates the cove joint, finds the optimal suction-point location, and runs a sub-slab communication test (smoke pencil at a test hole) to confirm one suction point will pull from the whole slab. Identifies whether an additional suction point or sump integration will be needed.

What you see: The pro inspecting the basement perimeter, drilling a small test hole in the slab, running a brief vacuum-pressure test, walking the exterior to plan the riser route.

2

System design & quote

15–30 min on-site or follow-up email

Quote based on what was found, not a template. Specifies suction-point count and location, fan model, routing path (exterior wall vs. interior chase), sump integration if applicable, sealing of cove joint and visible slab cracks, and the post-mitigation test method. Includes the 5-year warranty terms and the target post-mitigation level (<2 pCi/L).

What you see: A written scope with diagrams or photos showing where the suction point, riser, and fan will be installed. No surprises after this point.

3

Core drilling & suction point

60–90 min

Wet-core a 4" hole through the slab at the planned location, excavate 3–5 gallons of soil under the slab to create a suction void, drop in the PVC stub, seal around the penetration with polyurethane. Seal the cove joint and any visible slab cracks as part of the same visit.

What you see: Some water from wet drilling, a contained pile of slab dust, the suction-point pipe protruding 6–8 inches above the slab. The cove joint sealed with a visible bead of polyurethane.

4

Riser, fan & exterior penetration

2–4 hr

Run Schedule 40 PVC from the suction point up the wall and out through the rim joist (or up through an interior chase to the attic). Mount the fan outside the conditioned space — exterior wall, garage, or attic. Vertical discharge above the eave or roof. Install the U-tube manometer at the riser. Wire the fan to a dedicated circuit or switched outlet.

What you see: PVC piping up the wall, fan housing mounted with rubber isolation, manometer mounted at eye level on the riser, exterior discharge pipe extending above the eave.

5

Energize & post-mitigation test

15 min install + 48 hr test

Power on the fan, confirm the manometer shows differential pressure (water columns unequal), check for any audible vibration and add isolation if needed. Deploy a 48-hour CRM or short-term charcoal kit. Read the results 24 hours to 30 days later. Target is below 2 pCi/L. If above, mitigator returns to add a suction point or swap to a higher-static-pressure fan at no charge.

What you see: Manometer reading confirmed (photo it for your records), fan running quietly outside, a test device sitting in the basement for 48 hours, a written report with the post-mitigation pCi/L number when it comes back.

6

Documentation & warranty handoff

15 min

Written package: pre- and post-mitigation test results, system diagram, fan model and install date, manometer baseline photo, warranty terms (5-year system, 5-year manufacturer fan), and maintenance schedule (visual manometer check monthly, retest every 2 years). Keep this with your home closing documents — it transfers to the next owner.

What you see: A folder or PDF with everything you need to prove the system exists, works, and is under warranty.

What to send when you reach out
Send us:
  • Most recent radon test result (pCi/L) and the test type (short-term charcoal, CRM, long-term alpha-track)
  • Foundation type (poured basement, block basement, fieldstone, crawlspace, slab-on-grade, or mixed)
  • Approximate square footage of the slab or crawlspace footprint
  • Whether you have an existing sump pit and where it is located
  • Year the home was built
Helps a lot if you know it:
  • Photos of the basement walls, slab, and any exposed footings or interior support walls
  • Photo of the exterior elevation where the riser might run
  • Photo of the rim joist area where the pipe would penetrate the wall
  • Whether the basement is finished, partially finished, or unfinished
  • Any history of moisture, efflorescence, or visible cracks in the slab or walls
Worth flagging if you see any of these — they shape the diagnosis:
  • Test result above 10 pCi/L (priority install — EPA recommends action within months, not years)
  • Fieldstone or rubble foundation (specialty mitigation, not a standard SSD)
  • Mixed foundation (e.g. basement plus crawlspace) — almost always requires a multi-zone approach
  • Existing sump pit with an open or loosely covered top (significant entry point that changes the system design)
  • Visible cracks in the slab wider than 1/8 inch or a separated cove joint (entry points that need sealing as part of the install)

Permits, timing, and what's local to Newport

Permits & regulations

Newport's Historic District Commission reviews exterior changes in designated areas before a building permit can issue, with very limited substitutions for original wood, slate, and copper. Coastal properties within 200 ft of tidal features fall under CRMC (Coastal Resources Management Council) jurisdiction alongside city review.

Permit authority: Newport Building & Inspections (https://www.newportri.gov/departments/zoning-inspections)

What's local to Newport

Salt-air corrosion is the dominant maintenance driver — fasteners, electrical disconnects, HVAC condensers, and exterior paint all run shorter service lives than inland.

What homeowners ask us

Where else we serve

Free Consultation

Ready to Get Started?

Call or text us for a free consultation about Radon Mitigation in Newport. Our experts are ready to help.

Verified Pros
Free Estimates
Local Experts

Call or Text

401.407.5678

Available 7 days a week • Response within minutes

or

Get a Free Text Estimate: