Should I hire a landscape designer separately or use a design-build company?

For most residential projects under $75K, design-build is faster, cheaper, and consolidates accountability. Independent landscape designers (typically $1,500–6,000 for a planting plan, more for hardscape) are worth it when the project is over $100K, when you want to bid the build out to multiple contractors, or when the design is unusual enough that a generalist design-build firm wants a specialist plan. RI requires a licensed landscape architect for any UCG plan in coastal greenway zones — that is non-negotiable.

How long does a new paver patio actually last?

A properly installed paver patio — 6 inches of compacted base in lifts, geotextile beneath, polymeric sand joints, manufacturer-grade pavers — lasts 25-40 years with periodic re-sanding (every 5-8 years) and occasional individual paver replacement. Base prep is the entire ballgame, so it is worth aligning with your contractor on the spec before work starts.

What is the realistic schedule for a full design/build project in New England?

Design phase: 4-8 weeks for a planting/refresh, 8-16 weeks for design with hardscape, drainage, and permitting. Build season is essentially April through November — December through March is dormant for planting and inhospitable for hardscape (frozen ground cannot be compacted). Most full projects span two construction seasons: hardscape and grading the first year, planting and irrigation either at end of year one or start of year two so plants establish before summer drought.

Do I need a permit for landscaping work?

For most planting and refresh work, no. Permits are typically required for: retaining walls over 4 feet (engineered drawings + building permit), structures (pergolas, sheds, pool fences), grading that changes property drainage onto neighbors, and any work in regulated wetland buffers (MA: 100 ft from a Bordering Vegetated Wetland; RI: variable, plus CRMC jurisdiction within 200 ft of coastal features). Pesticide and fertilizer programs require the contractor — not you — to be licensed, but spreading rates are also regulated near surface water.

Is sod or seed better for a New England lawn?

Sod is better when you need it to look finished immediately, on slopes where seed washes out, or in late summer when seed germination is unreliable. Seed wins on cost (5-10x cheaper material), on large areas where sod logistics get painful, and when you have time for the 4-6 week establishment window. Either way, the soil prep underneath matters more than the choice: 4-6 inches of screened loam, fine grade, no debris, lime to correct New England soil pH.

What is the real cost of a low-maintenance landscape?

Low-maintenance is achievable but it costs more up front. Native plants matched to the site need less water and almost no chemicals — but you pay the design time to select them and the install premium to plant 5-7 gallon sizes that fill in fast. Mulched beds with steel edging are lower-maintenance than turf, but the install cost is higher than seed. Drip irrigation reduces watering labor but adds $1.50-3/linear ft of bed. Genuine "low maintenance" is usually 30-50% more expensive to install than a conventional landscape — and then 60-80% cheaper to maintain.

How do I know if my drainage problem is fixable with grading or needs a real drainage system?

If the wet area is at the bottom of a slope where water sheets across the surface, surface regrading and downspout extensions usually solve it for under $4,000. If the wet area is in a flat low spot, against the foundation, or shows up where the water table is high, you likely need a yard drain or french drain ($30-90/linear ft depending on depth). If the basement is wet, fix grading and downspouts first — interior waterproofing is the last resort, not the first.

Do I need a maintenance contract, or can I pay per visit?

Both are valid — it depends on your property and use. Maintenance contracts make sense for properties with consistent year-round needs (regular mowing, predictable bed care, seasonal cleanups) because they lock in pricing and crew availability. À la carte makes sense for occasional cleanup, one-off pruning, or properties where the workload swings month to month. Discuss with your pro which fits your situation — a good one will recommend the structure that matches the work, not the one that maximizes recurring revenue.

Why are plants sometimes more expensive through a landscaper than at a retail nursery?

Nurseries sell wholesale to landscapers, who then mark up the plant when reselling to you. That markup typically covers transport, hand-selection of healthy stock, planting labor, and a warranty or replacement guarantee if a plant dies in the first season. Buying plants yourself and having a landscaper install is also a valid path — just understand that warranty coverage usually only applies to material the pro supplied. Both approaches are normal; ask which your contractor offers.

Are there ongoing costs beyond install for things like irrigation and lawn care?

Yes — and they are predictable. Irrigation blow-out (fall) and start-up (spring) run $80-180 each. Annual backflow preventer test (legally required) is $50-120. A 4-step lawn care program (pre-emergent, fertilizer, weed control, fall feed) runs $400-900/yr for a typical quarter-acre. Mulch refresh annually $400-1,200. Pruning of shrubs/hedges $200-600 a session. A reasonable all-in maintenance budget for a typical New England suburban yard is $2,500-6,000/yr.

Brookline, MA

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How to hire a landscaper in Brookline, MA

Landscaping splits into two different businesses — maintenance and design/build — and knowing which one you need is the most useful thing you can bring to a first conversation. Drainage, base prep, and plant selection drive cost and outcome more than the visible plantings, so a great pro will spend time on those before showing you photos.

Design/build & maintenance both staffed — Hardscape crews with plate compactors and grading laser-levels, plus maintenance crews that mow, prune, and refresh beds — quoted separately so you can choose the right service for the work.

Licensed for chemical & wetland work — Crews carry RIDEM and MA Pesticide Bureau licenses for fertilizer/herbicide programs. Wetland buffer work is routed through a RI landscape architect or MA-certified wetland consultant.

Drainage-first design — Grading and stormwater routing scoped before plantings or hardscape — most failed landscapes are drainage failures, not design failures.

Native & zone 6b/7a plant palette — Inkberry, sweetspire, summersweet, switchgrass, oakleaf hydrangea — plants that survive coastal salt, deer pressure, and southern New England winters without chemical life support.

Get a quote What it usually costs

Professional landscaper with sod delivery

What to know before you hire a landscaper in Brookline

Brookline housing ranges from Coolidge Corner Victorian brick rowhouses and 1890s–1920s brownstones to Queen Anne and Colonial Revival mansions in Chestnut Hill and Fisher Hill. Many of the row houses and triple-deckers have been converted to duplexes or condominiums, with intricate brickwork, mansard roofs, and original plaster interiors.

Brookline shares Boston weather — cold winters with significant snowfall, humid summers, and routine ice-dam exposure on older slate and asphalt roofs.

How we price it

These are the factors that move a quote up or down. Knowing them helps you share the right context upfront so we can quote your specific situation accurately — and so you can compare bids on apples-to-apples scope.

Site prep & drainage

Primary driver

The single biggest hidden cost in any landscape job. Negative grading toward the foundation, undersized downspout extensions, clay-heavy soils, and existing stumps or buried debris all have to be fixed before sod, beds, or hardscape can go in. A patio installed over un-corrected drainage will heave within two freeze-thaw cycles. Grading and french drain work is invisible in the finished photos but accounts for 20-40% of a typical project budget — ask your pro to walk you through this part of the scope so you understand what you are paying for.

Benchmark:Grading $1–3/sqft · French drain $30–90/linear ft (deep at foundation) · Yard drain runs $10–35/linear ft

Hardscape base depth & compaction

Primary driver

In southern New England freeze-thaw, base prep is the difference between a 25-year patio and a 5-year patio. Foot-traffic pavers need 4-6 inches of compacted 3/4-inch processed gravel; driveways need 8-12 inches. Each lift goes down in 3-4 inch increments and gets plate-compacted before the next layer. The base spec is a great thing to discuss with your contractor — ask what depth they excavate to and how many compaction lifts the bid includes, and get the answer in writing so everyone is aligned.

Benchmark:Pavers $22–35/sqft installed · Bluestone $25–40/sqft · Stamped concrete $18–28/sqft · Retaining wall block $25–55/sqft of wall face

Plant size, quality & install density

Primary driver

The same Inkberry Holly comes as a $14 3-gallon liner, a $45 7-gallon, or a $120 B&B specimen. Installation labor is roughly constant per hole, so installed price varies less than nursery price — but the visual maturity and survival rate differs sharply. Smaller plant sizes are a legitimate way to hit a tighter budget, just know the trade-off: 3-gallon shrubs typically take 4-5 years to fill in. Ask for plant sizes alongside counts and species so you can compare bids apples to apples.

Benchmark:Shrubs $35–85 installed (3-7gal) · Specimen shrubs $150–400 (B&B) · Trees $250–800 installed (1.5-2.5" caliper) · Perennials $18–35 installed (1gal)

Sod vs. seed vs. hydroseed

Secondary

Sod is instant lawn at $1.40-2.50/sqft installed (Kentucky bluegrass / fescue blend), but requires aggressive watering for 3-4 weeks and only takes if the bed underneath is properly prepped (4-6 inches of screened loam, fine grade, no rocks larger than golf-ball). Seed is $0.10-0.30/sqft material plus prep, takes 4-6 weeks to establish, and struggles on slopes or poor soil. Hydroseed splits the difference at $0.30-0.80/sqft installed. Ask your pro what soil prep is included — that matters more than the choice between sod and seed.

Benchmark:Sod $1.40–2.50/sqft installed · Hydroseed $0.30–0.80/sqft · Seed $0.10–0.30/sqft (material only, add prep)

Bed prep, edging & mulch refresh

Secondary

New beds need 6 inches of amended soil, defined edges (cut spade edge, steel edging, or stone), and 2-3 inches of mulch. Existing beds need re-edged, weeded, and refreshed annually — mulch breaks down to half its volume in a year. Mulch options range from double-shredded hemlock (fades to grey in a season, cheaper) to dyed hardwood (holds color 18-24 months, costs a bit more) — ask which the bid uses so the look matches your expectation.

Benchmark:Mulch $90–140/yd installed · Steel edging $7–12/linear ft installed · Spring bed refresh $400–900 for a small to mid yard

Irrigation install or repair

Secondary

Sprinkler systems run $550–950 per zone fully installed (head count varies). A typical quarter-acre property is 4-6 zones. The expensive variable is what is in the way: trenching across an existing driveway, going under sidewalks, tying into an existing supply with backflow preventer. Drip irrigation for beds adds $1.50-3.00/linear ft of bed. Annual blowout and spring start-up is $80-180 each.

Benchmark:New install $550–950/zone · Backflow preventer $300–600 · Smart controller (Rachio, Hunter Hydrawise) $250–500 installed

Worth asking about: A state-approved backflow preventer is required by code in every RI and MA municipality on any irrigation tap, inspected annually by the water authority. Make sure it is in the bid.

Invasive removal & wetland buffers

Situational

Japanese knotweed, Asiatic bittersweet, multiflora rose, and burning bush are expensive removals — knotweed in particular requires multi-year glyphosate or imazapyr treatment because root fragments regenerate, so mechanical cutting alone makes the problem worse. Any work within 100 feet of a wetland (MA) or 50-200 feet of a coastal feature (RI CRMC) triggers conservation commission review and may need a licensed wetland scientist or landscape architect on the plan. A good pro will surface these constraints early.

Benchmark:Knotweed treatment $800–2,500 per stand over 2-3 seasons · Wetland delineation $1,500–4,500 · ConCom filing $250–800

Project sizes we handle

Three scopes that cover almost everything in this trade. We'll help you place your project on the right tier based on the property, what you've already tried, and how long you plan to stay.

Refresh & cleanup

$1,500–4,500 for a typical quarter-acre yard

Existing beds re-edged and re-mulched, hedges pruned, a season or two of perennials added to fill gaps, sod patched where damaged. No grading, no hardscape, no irrigation changes. The right choice when the bones are fine and you just need it to look maintained.

Double-shredded hardwood mulch (2-3 inches, refreshed annually)
Spade-cut bed edges or basic plastic edging
1-gallon perennials, 3-gallon shrubs to fill gaps
Hand-spread cleanup and pruning

Best for: Move-in cleanup, pre-listing curb appeal, or annual seasonal refresh on a landscape that fundamentally works.

Renovation with planting plan

$8,000–25,000 for a full front-and-side yard renovation

A scaled planting plan (not just "we will add some shrubs"), new beds with amended soil and steel edging, native-forward plant palette at 5-7 gallon sizes for density on day one, drip irrigation in beds, and basic grading corrections at downspout outlets. Project-driven, not a maintenance program.

Steel or aluminum edging (10-15 year life)
5-7 gallon shrubs at proper spacing
Drip irrigation with smart controller integration
6 inches of amended soil in new beds, geotextile under stone areas

Best for: Homeowners replacing an aging or generic landscape with something that looks intentional and survives without weekly babysitting.

Design/build with hardscape & drainage

$45,000–150,000+ for a full design/build project

Stamped survey or measured site plan, drainage design (yard drains, french drains, regrading), engineered hardscape (paver patio, retaining walls, walkways) built to NCMA spec, planting plan with specimen B&B trees and natives, full irrigation with rain/freeze sensors, low-voltage landscape lighting. Plan first, build second — usually phased over 1-2 seasons.

Belgard, Techo-Bloc, or Unilock pavers on 6 inches compacted base + 1 inch bedding sand
NCMA-spec segmental retaining walls with geogrid reinforcement (walls >4ft need engineering)
B&B trees (2-2.5" caliper), specimen evergreens, layered native shrub/perennial palette
Polymeric sand joints (Pavermate Z3, SRW), Hydro Defender or G2 product class
Low-voltage LED path and uplighting (FX Luminaire, Kichler)

Best for: New construction, full backyard reimagination, or properties where drainage problems have to be solved before any visible improvement makes sense.

What we reach for and why

The materials and techniques behind a job that lasts — so you know what's in the quote and why it's there.

Proper paver base — 6 inches compacted, 1 inch bedding

technique

Excavate to 7 inches below finished grade for foot traffic (10-13 inches for driveways). Lay geotextile fabric on the subgrade to prevent base migration into clay. Spread 3/4-inch dense graded base in 3-4 inch lifts; plate-compact each lift before the next. Screed 1 inch of coarse bedding sand (concrete sand or ASTM C33, never stone dust). Lay pavers, sweep polymeric sand into joints, mist to activate, run plate compactor with pad over the surface.

Pro tip: Base spec is the single biggest factor in patio longevity. A great conversation to have with your contractor: how deep is the excavation, how many compaction lifts, what is the base material, and is geotextile under the base. Knowing the spec helps you compare bids and understand the value behind the price.

Polymeric sand vs. regular joint sand

material

Polymeric sand contains a polymer binder that activates with water, locking joints against weeds, ants, and wash-out. Pavermate Z3 (SRW Products) and Hydro Defender are the contractor-grade choices. Joints need to be at least 1/8 inch wide and the sand has to fill to within 3 mm of the surface. Critical step everyone gets wrong: lightly mist (do not soak), let it set, then mist again — flooding the joints causes haze on the paver face.

Pro tip: Spec the brand in the bid (Pavermate Z3, G2, or Hydro Defender). The premium grades hold up significantly longer than the budget options — worth aligning on this up front so the project comes in at the durability you expect.

NCMA-spec segmental retaining walls

technique

National Concrete Masonry Association standards: compacted granular base footing, leveling pad, geogrid reinforcement layers tied into the wall every 2-3 courses for walls over 3 feet, compacted gravel infill behind the wall, perforated drain pipe at the base wrapped in filter fabric, daylighted to a non-erodible exit. Walls over 4 feet in RI and MA require an engineered stamp and a building permit — non-negotiable.

Pro tip: Drainage behind the wall is what makes a residential wall last — hydrostatic pressure is the main failure mode. Ask to see the drain pipe outlet so you and your contractor are aligned that the system is built to spec.

Native plant palette for zone 6b/7a

approach

Plants that handle southern New England climate, coastal salt aerosol, deer pressure, and clay-heavy soils without irrigation life support. Shrubs: Inkberry Holly (Ilex glabra), Summersweet (Clethra), Virginia Sweetspire (Itea), Oakleaf Hydrangea, native Viburnums. Perennials: Switchgrass (Panicum), Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium), Mountain Mint (Pycnanthemum), Black-eyed Susan, Coneflower. Trees: Serviceberry, Eastern Redbud, Sweetbay Magnolia, native oaks.

Pro tip: Deer eat hostas, tulips, yews, and most arborvitae varieties — these are not deer-resistant despite what the tag says. Truly deer-resistant: boxwood, inkberry, andromeda, ornamental grasses, lavender, catmint, ferns. If the property has heavy deer pressure, ask the designer to commit to a deer-resistant list in writing so the palette holds up to your conditions.

Soil amendment & loam quality

material

New England soil is glacially deposited — rocky, often acidic, with clay or sandy pockets. Healthy beds need 6 inches of screened loam tilled into the existing 2-3 inches of native soil, with compost or peat amendment for clay-heavy lots. "Screened loam" should be 1/2-inch screened, not the bargain bin "fill" some yards sell. A soil test ($25 at UMass or URI extension) tells you pH and nutrient gaps — most New England lots need lime annually.

Pro tip: Sod or bed planting installed directly on construction-compacted subsoil will struggle. Ask your contractor about loam depth and tilling under sod (minimum 4 inches screened) and beds (6 inches, tilled in) — proper soil prep is one of the highest-leverage investments in plant survival.

Smart irrigation controllers & rain/freeze sensors

material

Rachio 3 or Hunter Hydrawise replace the dumb mechanical timer with weather-aware scheduling. They pull local ET (evapotranspiration) data, skip cycles after rain, dial back in cool weather, and let you adjust zones from a phone. RI and MA require a freeze sensor on residential irrigation in some municipalities; all systems need a state-approved backflow preventer (PVB or RPZ) inspected annually.

Pro tip: A smart controller cuts water use 30-50% vs. a fixed weekly schedule and pays for itself in 2-3 seasons through reduced water bills and reduced overwatering damage (fungus, root rot, plant loss).

Invasive removal: knotweed, bittersweet, burning bush

technique

Japanese knotweed requires foliar glyphosate (54%+ AI) or imazapyr applied in late summer when sugars translocate to roots, repeated for 2-3 consecutive seasons. Cutting alone makes it worse — every node regrows. Bittersweet vines need cut-stump glyphosate at the base. Burning bush and barberry: cut to ground, herbicide-treat stump, mulch heavily, monitor for regrowth. Removed material has to be bagged and landfilled, not composted — knotweed re-roots from a centimeter of cane.

Pro tip: For wetland-adjacent properties, glyphosate is restricted — use Rodeo (aquatic glyphosate) applied by a licensed Mass DAR Pesticide Bureau applicator with an aquatic permit. A great pro will flag this constraint and propose a compliant multi-season treatment plan.

What to watch for

A short list of the things that actually matter for safety, code, and your peace of mind. Worth confirming with any pro before you sign — we expect these questions and we're happy you ask.

No proof of liability insurance on tree work or large hardscape

Tree removal, retaining walls, and excavation all carry real risk. Reputable pros carry general liability and (where applicable) workers comp and will share certificates on request. If a contractor cannot produce a current COI for the scope they are bidding, your property is exposed.

No Dig Safe ticket before excavation

Calling Dig Safe (811 in RI/MA) is legally required 72 hours before any digging. The free utility marks prevent gas/electric/water strikes. A crew that shows up to dig without spray-paint marks on the lawn is breaking the law and risking a serious incident.

No engineered stamp on retaining walls over 4 feet

In both RI and MA, walls over 4 feet require engineered drawings and a building permit. Unengineered tall walls fail under hydrostatic pressure and are a personal-injury liability when they do.

No state pesticide applicator license for chemical lawn care or fertilizer programs

Commercial fertilizer and herbicide application in RI (RIDEM) and MA (MDAR Pesticide Bureau) requires a state pesticide applicator license. Unlicensed application is illegal, exposes you to fines, and is not covered by your homeowner liability policy.

Work within 100 ft of a wetland with no ConCom filing

MA Wetlands Protection Act and RI freshwater wetlands rules require a Notice of Intent or determination for work in the buffer zone. Skipping the filing risks an enforcement order and a restoration mandate from the conservation commission.

What else might come up

Most projects touch more than one trade. Here's where this one usually overlaps with others — so you can plan ahead instead of scrambling.

Foundation & basement waterproofing

— Persistent wet basement, efflorescence on foundation walls, or visible negative grading.

Surface grading and downspout extensions solve 70% of wet basements before you ever need interior waterproofing. A landscape contractor with grading equipment can fix the upstream cause for a fraction of basement system cost. Get the landscape grading bid before signing for interior drainage.

Gutter & downspout work

— Downspouts dump within 3 feet of the foundation, or there is no underground extension.

Even perfect landscape grading cannot beat a downspout dumping 800 gallons per inch of rain next to the foundation. Tie downspouts into 4-inch corrugated extensions that daylight 10+ feet from the house — easiest line item to add when grading is already open.

Tree removal & pruning (certified arborist)

— Dead, hazard, or oversized trees in the landscape footprint, or trees needing structural pruning.

Landscape crews handle small-tree planting and basic limb work. Anything over 4-inch caliper, near power lines, or requiring climbing belongs to an ISA-certified arborist. A great landscaper will tell you when a job is outside their scope and recommend the right specialist.

Fence install

— New deer-pressure properties, pool code compliance, or screening from neighbors.

In heavy deer country, an 8-foot fence is the only reliable solution — no plant palette outruns deer in winter. Pool fences trigger code (48-inch min, self-closing gate). Schedule fence install after grading and before final plantings so post holes are not chasing buried irrigation lines.

Septic & well work

— Landscape grading or hardscape near a septic field, leach trench, or wellhead.

Never trench, regrade, or place hardscape over a leach field — it compacts the field and kills the system. Wellheads need 100-ft setback from any chemical application. A landscape contractor working on a septic property should ask for the as-built before designing.

What jobs typically cost

Fixed-rate pricing for our most common landscape professional jobs. Materials included where noted. Hourly rate for everything else: $55/hr.

Common jobsTypical price

Spring Cleanup (medium yard)
Debris removal, bed edging, first mow, light pruning
1 day – 2 dayLabor only
$450–$650
Mulch (6 yards)
Deliver and spread mulch across all beds
4 hours – 6 hoursLabor only
$225–$325
Lawn Aeration + Overseeding
Core aerate and overseed for thicker lawn
3 hours – 5 hoursLabor only
$175–$275
Shrub & Hedge Pruning
Shape hedges and remove dead wood
2 hours – 6 hoursLabor only
$100–$325
Seasonal Plantings
Plant annuals or perennials in beds
2 hours – 1 dayLabor only
$100–$450
Fall Cleanup (medium yard)
Full leaf removal, bed cutback, final mow
1 day – 2 dayLabor only
$550–$775
Biweekly Mow & Maintain
Mow, edge, string trim, and blow — every 2 weeks
2 hours – 4 hoursLabor only
$100–$225

Maintenance visits run $150–350 for mow-trim-blow on a quarter-acre. Spring/fall cleanups $400–900. Design/build hardscape and planting projects price per unit, not per visit — see drivers below.

Three things move price more than anything else: how much site prep and drainage the property needs before any visible work starts, whether base depth and compaction meet load specs, and plant size/quality at install (a 3-gallon shrub and a 7-gallon shrub are different products).

Get an exact quote for your project

Sourced from our pricing SOP — updated regularly

What we show up with

The equipment we bring is part of what separates a real job from a shortcut. Here's what to expect on a typical visit.

Plate compactor (vibratory)

Compacts gravel base in 3-4 inch lifts under pavers and walls. Reversible-plate models for driveways, lighter forward-only plates for patios. Without one, no hardscape is built to spec.

Transit / laser level

Establishes finish grade, slope-to-drain (minimum 1% / 1/8 inch per foot away from house), patio elevations, and retaining wall course leveling. Eyeballing grade is how patios end up sloping toward the foundation.

Sod cutter

Strips existing turf cleanly for bed expansion or full lawn replacement. Faster and cleaner than a shovel, leaves the soil intact underneath. Rentable but rarely owned by homeowners.

Stand-on skid steer (Toro Dingo, Vermeer S450)

Moves soil, base stone, and pavers across the site without compacting the lawn under a full skid steer. Standard kit for any crew doing more than a half-day of material handling.

Hydraulic auger

Drills clean planting holes for shrubs, trees, and fence posts in rocky New England soil. Two-person augers for 6-12 inch holes; skid-steer mounted for 16-24 inch.

Backpack sprayer (calibrated)

DIY-able

Targeted herbicide and fertilizer application — knotweed treatment, spot weed control, foliar feeds. Calibrated for application rate (gallons/1000 sqft) so doses match label rates required by RIDEM/MDAR.

Bypass pruners, loppers, and pole pruners (Felco, ARS)

DIY-able

Clean cuts on woody plants without crushing tissue. Cheap pruners tear bark and invite disease. Felco 2 and ARS VS-8Z are the contractor standards.

How a job goes

Site walk & scope

1-2 hours on site

Designer or estimator walks the property with you. Identifies grade and drainage issues, existing plant material to keep or remove, irrigation status, sun/shade conditions, soil notes, and any regulatory triggers (wetland buffer, septic, easements). Listens to use cases — kids, pets, entertaining, deer pressure.

What you see: A pro with a measuring wheel or laser, a clipboard or tablet, asking about where water collects after a rain and what you actually want to do in the yard.

Design or proposal

1-4 weeks depending on scope

For maintenance or refresh: a written scope with line-item pricing. For renovation: a planting plan with species, sizes, counts, and bed layouts. For design/build hardscape: a scaled site plan with patio, wall, planting, drainage, and irrigation overlays. Permits and conservation filings identified.

What you see: PDF or printed plan with plant list, materials spec, and a phased budget if the project will span seasons.

Permits, locates, and prep

1-3 weeks before excavation

Call-before-you-dig (Dig Safe in RI/MA — 72-hour utility marks). Conservation commission filing if wetland-adjacent. Material delivery staged. Site protection — fence around trees to remain, plywood paths to protect lawn, silt fence if disturbance is over the regulated threshold.

What you see: Spray-paint marks on the lawn (utility colors), wooden stakes at corners of planned hardscape, deliveries of stone and soil arriving on pallets.

Excavation, grading, drainage

2-7 days for a typical project

The invisible work that determines whether everything else lasts. Strip topsoil to be reused. Cut to subgrade for hardscape (7-13 inches below finished). Install drainage runs (french drains, yard drains, downspout extensions) before backfill. Compact subgrade. Lay geotextile. Bring in base stone in lifts, compact each.

What you see: Heaviest equipment phase — skid steer, plate compactor running constantly, dump trucks of base stone, piles of removed soil to be regraded or hauled.

Hardscape & structures

3-10 days depending on hardscape scope

Pavers, walls, walkways, edging. Each course of wall block leveled and checked. Pavers laid pattern-first, edges cut with a wet saw, edge restraint spiked. Polymeric sand swept, plate-compacted, misted. Walls backfilled with drainage stone, drain pipe daylighted.

What you see: Cleanest phase — string lines, pavers stacked nearby, wet saw running, plate compactor over the finished surface, polymeric sand being swept.

Soil, planting, irrigation, mulch

2-5 days

Topsoil spread and finish-graded. Irrigation trenched in (or drip lines run in beds). Plants set at proper depth — root flares above grade, not buried. Beds mulched 2-3 inches deep, kept off plant stems. Sod laid and rolled or seed sown and tacked. Walkthrough with you to identify each plant and its care.

What you see: Crew on hands and knees setting plants, an irrigation tech with PVC and a manifold, finished mulch lines, a walkthrough document with plant names and watering instructions.

What to send when you reach out

Send us:

Lot size and approximate dimensions (or address — pros pull aerial/parcel data)
Photos of the areas you want addressed, plus the existing problem (wet spot, eroded slope, dead grass, overgrown beds)
Which kind of project: maintenance program, refresh/cleanup, planting renovation, or hardscape/drainage build
Budget range — even rough — so the bid lands in a realistic tier rather than coming back as three options you cannot choose between
Whether you want a design first (separate fee) or a design-build bid (design rolled into the project)

Helps a lot if you know it:

Sun/shade exposure of the areas (full sun, part shade, full shade)
Deer or rabbit pressure on the property — changes plant palette materially
Existing irrigation? (where the controller is, how many zones, working or not)
Soil notes (clay, sandy, rocky, prior fill) and any history of standing water
Whether the property is in a wetland buffer or coastal zone (CRMC for RI shorelines, ConCom-regulated wetlands in MA)
HOA design review requirements or fence/structure restrictions

Worth flagging if you see any of these — they shape the diagnosis:

Standing water 24+ hours after rain (drainage problem to solve before any landscape work)
Visible foundation cracks or efflorescence (route surface water away first)
Stumps from prior tree removal still in the ground (need grinding, can shift bed grades as they decompose)
Existing retaining walls leaning or bulging (structural problem, not a refresh)
Septic field or wellhead location (cannot be built over or chemically treated near)
Known Japanese knotweed, bittersweet, or other invasive presence (multi-season treatment plan needed)

Send your info

Permits, timing, and what's local to Brookline

Permits & regulations

Brookline has a notably strict Preservation Commission whose approval is required before the Building Commissioner will issue permits for exterior alterations, repairs, or demolitions visible from a public way. A 12-month demolition delay applies to most historically significant houses, and several Local Historic Districts (Cottage Farm, Pill Hill, Graffam-McKay) require a Certificate before any exterior work.

Permit authority: Brookline Building Department (https://www.brooklinema.gov/172/Building-Department)

What's local to Brookline

Preservation Commission review timing is the single biggest schedule risk on exterior work — file early. Mass Save and town-level rebates layer for energy retrofits.