I have one small thing — a single picture to hang. Is it worth calling a handyman?

Probably not. Most pros have a 1–2 hour minimum ($150–250). For one task, you are paying that minimum. Either DIY it (the right anchor is cheap) or save it for when you have 4–6 things you can bundle into a single 3-hour visit. The per-task cost drops by more than half when you bundle.

What can a handyman legally do in Massachusetts and Rhode Island?

Cosmetic, repair, and replacement-in-kind work. Painting, drywall patching, trim repair, door rehangs, fixture/faucet/fan swaps, furniture and TV mounting, shelving, weatherstripping, caulking. In MA, any single contract over $1,000 on an owner-occupied 1–4 family home requires the pro to be HIC-registered. In RI, $500 per contract triggers CRLB registration. Anything that crosses into new electrical circuits, supply/drain plumbing, HVAC service, or structural work requires a licensed trade specialist — handymen who do that work are working illegally and your insurance will not cover the result.

Hourly or flat-rate — which should I ask for?

For a punch list of mixed small tasks, hourly is usually fairer to both sides — the pro is not padding for unknowns, you are not paying for problems that did not materialize. For a single standard task (TV mount, ceiling fan swap, faucet replacement), it is reasonable to ask for a flat rate; experienced pros have done that exact job many times and can often quote within ~10%. Some pros prefer hourly across the board because conditions vary so much job to job — that is a legitimate choice, not a red flag. Ask which they prefer and why.

Should I buy the parts myself or let the handyman source them?

Buy them yourself for anything you have an opinion about — faucets, ceiling fans, light fixtures, hardware finishes. You will get the exact model and finish you want, and the pro is not on the clock browsing aisles. Let the pro source the consumables — drywall mud, anchors, fasteners, caulk, paint patch kits — because they already have most of it in the truck and it is cheaper to bundle than to send you shopping. For specialty parts (fan-rated junction boxes, brand-specific cartridges), it is often worth letting them bring it; their markup covers picking the right SKU and handling returns. Either way, talk it through up front so the quote reflects it.

My handyman said the work I want needs an electrician/plumber. Is he upselling?

Almost certainly not — it is the opposite. Handing the work to a specialist is handing money away from himself. When a handyman says "you need a licensed pro for this," it is one of three things: the work crosses a code line he cannot legally do (new circuits, supply lines, gas), the work requires permit and inspection, or he opened it up and found something (aluminum wiring, K&T, galvanized pipe, no junction box) that changes the job. A pro who flags those things is protecting your insurance coverage and his license. The "upsell" call would be the one who shrugs and does it anyway.

How do I know my handyman is actually insured?

Ask for a current Certificate of Insurance (COI) before the work starts. It should show general liability of at least $500K (the RI CRLB minimum; most carry $1M) and list your name as the certificate holder if the job is large. A registered pro can email you a COI from their broker in 10 minutes. If they cannot produce one same-day, they are uninsured or their coverage has lapsed — either way, if they fall off your ladder, the claim lands on your homeowner’s policy.

Why is a handyman more expensive than a specialist for big jobs?

Specialists are faster at their trade because that is all they do. A drywall finisher can hang and tape a 20-sheet basement in a couple of days; a generalist will be slower and the finish quality is harder to match at scale. An electrician will rough-in a kitchen in a half-day. Handymen are the right call for small, mixed, varied work — the value is in being able to knock out a punch list in one visit. Once a job becomes a single specialized task at scale, the math favors hiring the specialist directly.

My handyman finished the job but the drywall patch is visible. Is that normal?

A small spot-primed patch in matching paint is normally invisible at arm’s length. If you can see it from across the room, one of two things happened: the patch was not feathered out far enough (drywall mud should taper 8–12" past the hole on all sides), or the surrounding paint has aged and the new paint reads as a different shade. The fix is either re-floating the patch with wider feathering, or repainting corner-to-corner. Reputable pros will come back and refloat at no charge — paint match across an aged wall is on the homeowner.

Cranston, RI

🛠️

How to find a handyman in Cranston, RI

A handyman is the right call for the punch list under your fridge magnet — mounted TVs, sticky doors, dead fixtures, drywall dings. The moment the work crosses a state licensing threshold or a trade line, you want a specialist, not a generalist working out of their truck.

Registered for residential work — In MA, any single home-improvement contract over $1,000 on an owner-occupied 1–4 family home requires HIC registration. In RI, the threshold is $500 per contract under the Contractors’ Registration and Licensing Board (CRLB).

Insured + 1-hour minimum — Every pro carries general liability (RI CRLB requires $500K minimum) and quotes with a 1–2 hour minimum so a $40 part does not turn into a half-day callback.

Bundle-aware quoting — We quote your full punch list at once. Trip time, setup, and cleanup are spread across the job — six tasks in one visit cost a lot less than six visits.

Knows where to stop — Faucet swap yes, supply-line reroute no. Outlet cover yes, new circuit no. We hand off to a licensed electrician, plumber, or HVAC tech the moment work crosses a code line.

Get a quote What it usually costs

Friendly handyman professional ready to help

What to know before you call a handyman in Cranston

Cranston is a mix of mid-century ranches, split-levels, and Edgewood-era colonials. Western Cranston has newer construction from the 1980s onward while Edgewood, Auburn, and Pawtuxet have pre-1940 stock with original wood siding and ungrounded electrical service.

Cranston gets the full New England seasonal range with moderate coastal influence. Ice dams are common in winter on older homes with under-insulated attics, and summer humidity stresses central AC systems.

How we price it

These are the factors that move a quote up or down. Knowing them helps you share the right context upfront so we can quote your specific situation accurately — and so you can compare bids on apples-to-apples scope.

Visit minimums (and why bundling matters)

Primary driver

Most handymen have a 1–2 hour minimum because every trip has a fixed cost — drive time, setup, parking, paperwork. That is why a single small task ends up feeling expensive and why bundling several small items into one visit is dramatically cheaper per task. The cost of any visit also reflects whether the pro is a solo independent or a branded service with W-2 crews, dispatch, and stronger insurance — both have a place, depending on what you need.

Benchmark:Single-task minimum visit: $150–250 · 4–6 task punch list in one visit: $400–700

Bundle size (the single biggest lever)

Primary driver

Travel, parking, setup, and cleanup eat 30–45 minutes regardless of job size. One small task = you pay for all of it. Six small tasks in the same visit = you pay for it once. A TV mount + ceiling fan + door rehang + two drywall patches as one visit is typically 3–4 billable hours; the same four jobs across four visits is 6–8.

Benchmark:Single-task visit: $150–250 · 4–6 task punch list: $400–700

Material runs

Primary driver

Having parts on site when the pro arrives keeps the job moving. For specialty items — specific finishes, brand-name fixtures, less-common hardware — they will often offer to pick them up themselves; a small markup covers their procurement time, returns, and warranty handling. Either approach is normal; talk through it when you book so the quote reflects what you have on hand and what they will source.

Where the work is (height, access, obstruction)

Secondary

A ceiling fan in an 8-ft hallway is one ladder. The same fan in a 20-ft foyer is a scaffold or a separate trip with extension equipment. Same for caulking a second-story window from a ladder, fishing wire through a finished ceiling, or anything inside a tight closet or behind built-ins.

Benchmark:Standard 8-ft ceiling fan: $125–200 · Vaulted/2-story foyer fan: $250–450

Hidden conditions behind the wall

Secondary

The honest version of "swap a light fixture": pop the cover and find aluminum wiring, no junction box, no ground wire, or a switch loop wired backwards. The right move is to flag it, charge for the diagnostic time, and bring in a licensed electrician for the next step. Budget for the possibility that an "easy" fixture swap surfaces something the handyman cannot legally finish.

Mounting hardware quality

Situational

For TV mounts, shelves, and grab bars, the right anchor matters more than the rated weight on the box. Toggle bolts in drywall hold ~30 lb each; a 65" TV needs lag screws into studs. Worth asking up front what anchors they plan to use — a pro will have a quick answer keyed to the load.

Benchmark:Tilting TV mount install (into studs): $100–175 · Full-motion w/ in-wall power: $200–350

Cleanup and disposal

Situational

The old vanity, the dead ceiling fan, the strip of trim you tore off — somebody pays to haul it. Some pros include cleanup in the rate; others charge $25–75 per visit for disposal or quote a dump fee separately if it is more than a contractor bag.

Project sizes we handle

Three scopes that cover almost everything in this trade. We'll help you place your project on the right tier based on the property, what you've already tried, and how long you plan to stay.

Solo independent — task-based

Typical visit $200–500 (3–5 task punch list)

A registered solo pro who shows up in a personal pickup with a Ridgid tool roll and gets through a focused 2–4 hour punch list. Strong on the basics: TV mounts, fans, fixtures, doors, drywall patches under 4". Probably will not have a 28-ft extension ladder or a drywall jack in the truck.

Standard hollow-wall anchors (Toggler, EZ-Anchor) for non-load items
Sherwin-Williams or Benjamin Moore primer/paint for patch repair
Off-the-shelf hinges, latches, faucets — homeowner-supplied

Best for: Punch lists under 4 hours, no vaulted ceilings, nothing structural. Best value for the routine "I have a list" call.

Branded handyman service (Mr. Handyman, Ace, local equivalents)

Typical visit $300–700 (written quote, scheduled window, warranty)

W-2 employees in marked trucks, dispatch, scheduled arrival windows, written quotes before work, $1M+ liability, workers’ comp. Strict about staying inside scope — anything past handyman work gets referred out to a licensed trade. Many carry their own materials inventory (anchors, fasteners, common fixtures) so the Home Depot trip is rarer.

Snap-Toggle and Toggler ALLIGATOR anchors for medium-load mounts
Pre-stocked common faucets, fans, fixture replacement parts in the truck
Branded warranty on labor (typically 1 year)

Best for: Out-of-town landlords, rentals, anything that needs an audit trail, and homeowners who want a written quote and a guarantee in their email before the work starts.

Trim carpenter / finish carpenter doing handyman work

Typical visit $400–900 (finish-grade work, 2-hour minimum)

An experienced finish carpenter (often a remodeling sub between jobs) who happens to take small work. Brings the right gear — laser level, oscillating multi-tool, mid-tier drywall jack, plug router for hinges — and will catch the things a generalist misses (door reveals, scribe cuts, trim mitres, paint sequencing). Costs more per visit, finishes faster, and the result actually looks like a pro did it.

Trim-grade fillers (Bondo wood filler, MH Ready Patch for drywall over 1" dia)
European concealed hinges (Blum/Salice) for cabinet door rebuilds
Solid-stock blocking added behind drywall mounts when the load demands it

Best for: Anything visible (trim, cabinetry, doors, built-ins), older homes with plaster and lath, and homeowners who care that the patched corner bead is invisible after paint.

What we reach for and why

The materials and techniques behind a job that lasts — so you know what's in the quote and why it's there.

The right wall anchor for the load

technique

Anchor choice matters more than the rated weight on the box. Plastic conical anchors hold ~10 lb. EZ-Anchor or Toggler ALLIGATOR holds 25–50 lb. Snap-Toggle holds 100+ lb. For TVs over 40", 65" mirrors, floating shelves, and grab bars: into studs with #14 lag screws. Anything else risks a callback.

Pro tip: For ADA-compliant grab bars, code requires 250 lb pull-out. That is studs or blocking only — no anchor product is rated for it.

Oscillating multi-tool (Fein, Festool, Bosch)

material

A staple of the handyman toolkit. Plunge-cuts drywall for outlet boxes without hitting wires, undercuts door jambs for flooring, scrapes caulk, sands tight corners, cuts copper tube flush. Most experienced handymen will have one in the truck.

Pro tip: If you are curious about blade choice for a particular task, ask — there is a specific blade for nail-embedded wood (bi-metal), grout (carbide grit), and drywall (fast-cut). A pro will have an opinion.

Drywall patch hierarchy (mesh / paper / California / texture)

technique

Holes under 2": stick-on mesh patch, two coats of joint compound, sand, paint. 2–6": California patch (cut a square of drywall slightly oversized, score and snap the gypsum off the back leaving paper edges, glue+mud in). Over 6": cut to studs, screw in blocking, new drywall, three coats with feathered edges. Texture match is a separate skill — orange peel, knockdown, popcorn each have specific tools.

Pro tip: In older RI/MA homes the wall is plaster on wood lath, not drywall. Stick-on mesh fails on plaster. The right fix is a setting-type compound (Durabond 45 or 90) skim-coated, then USG topping compound. Different material, different time, different price.

Bosch GLM laser distance + cross-line laser

material

A Bosch GLM 50 C ranges room dimensions in seconds; a self-leveling cross-line laser (Bosch GLL 3-80, Hilti PM 30-MG) sets the horizontal for picture rails, cabinet uppers, tile starter rows, and TV mounts dead level even on out-of-square walls. Tape and torpedo level is fine for one screw — the laser is what makes a four-shelf installation align across the room.

Drywall jack (panel lift) for ceilings and over-eight-foot walls

material

A $200 rental that lets one person hang a 4x8 sheet on a 9-ft ceiling solo. For any meaningful ceiling drywall, expect a pro to either bring one or build a rental fee into the quote — it is the difference between a clean install and two people wrestling 55 lb of gypsum overhead.

Door reveal & shim technique for rehangs

technique

A door that does not latch is almost never a "tighten the hinges" job. The reveal — the gap between door edge and jamb — has to be even (~1/8") on all three sides. Fix is shims behind the hinges or moving the strike plate. For older homes with a lot of doors, a trim carpenter or finish-focused handyman is often the better call; they have done it enough that it goes quickly.

Pro tip: If the door sticks at the top corner away from hinges and the gap at the bottom hinge has opened up, the top hinge needs a cardboard shim behind the hinge leaf. Five-minute fix once you know to look.

Festool TS 55 / Track saw — when it shows up

material

You will rarely see a track saw on a basic handyman call. When you do — for trimming an interior door to height after new flooring, or scribing a built-in to an out-of-plumb wall — it is a sign the pro takes finish work seriously. A cordless circ saw can do the job; the track saw does it in one cut with no edge sanding.

What to watch for

A short list of the things that actually matter for safety, code, and your peace of mind. Worth confirming with any pro before you sign — we expect these questions and we're happy you ask.

Doing work over the licensing threshold without HIC (MA) or CRLB (RI) registration

In MA, any single contract over $1,000 on an owner-occupied 1–4 family home legally requires HIC registration and the reg number on the contract. In RI, $500 per contract triggers CRLB registration. Unregistered work above these thresholds means no access to the state guaranty fund and no formal recourse if something goes wrong — this is a hard legal line, not a judgment call.

Taking on real electrical, plumbing, or HVAC work past the handyman scope

Adding a new circuit, rerouting a drain, or moving a gas line requires a licensed electrician, plumber, or gas fitter in both MA and RI — these are licensure-restricted trades. A good handyman will draw the line at fixture/faucet swaps and refer the rest; the issue here is the legal scope of the work, not the person.

No insurance certificate available on request

RI requires $500K liability minimum for registered contractors. MA HIC requires proof of insurance for registration. A current Certificate of Insurance (COI) should be available same-day from any registered pro. If one cannot be produced and someone gets hurt on your property, the claim can land on your homeowner’s policy.

What else might come up

Most projects touch more than one trade. Here's where this one usually overlaps with others — so you can plan ahead instead of scrambling.

Licensed electrician

— Any new circuit, panel work, hardwired smoke/CO detector chain, EV charger, recessed lighting cut-ins, ceiling-fan box install (most existing boxes are not fan-rated), or anything inside the panel.

Fixture and switch swaps are handyman scope. Anything that adds load, runs new cable, or modifies the service is electrician-only in RI and MA. The wrong call here voids fire-loss coverage on your homeowner’s policy.

Licensed plumber

— New supply lines, drain rerouting, water heater install/replace, dishwasher hookup if a new shutoff is needed, gas appliance hookups, anything inside the wall past the shutoff valve.

Replacing a faucet, a P-trap, a toilet flange, or a shutoff valve is handyman scope. Once the work moves past the shutoff into the rough plumbing — supply, drain, vent — RI and MA require a licensed plumber and the work needs permit/inspection.

Painter (interior)

— Drywall patches that need full-wall or full-ceiling repaint to hide the patch. A patch in a 5-year-old paint job will not match — the surrounding paint has yellowed and chalked.

A handyman will spot-prime and dab paint, and on a closet that is fine. In a living room or hallway, the patch will read as a dinner-plate-sized mismatch. Plan to repaint corner-to-corner.

Trim carpenter / finish carpenter

— Anything visible and detailed: crown molding repair, built-in shelving, stair tread replacement, cabinet door rebuilds, scribed counter ends. A generalist can do it; a finish carpenter does it 3x faster and 10x cleaner.

Handyman pricing on finish work often costs more than hiring the right person directly, because the generalist takes 2x the hours and still leaves visible miters and reveals.

Roofing / siding for any exterior penetration

— Installing a satellite dish, a hood vent termination, a dryer vent through siding, exterior junction box for outdoor lighting, or anything that punches the building envelope.

Flashing the penetration correctly is roofing/siding work. A handyman who caulks a hole through your siding has just given you a 3-year water leak. The right answer is core-drill, flash with a proper boot, then make the connection.

What jobs typically cost

Fixed-rate pricing for our most common handyman jobs. Materials included where noted. Hourly rate for everything else: $99/hr.

Common jobsTypical price

Furniture Assembly
Assemble dresser, bookshelf, or flat-pack furniture
1.5 hours – 4 hoursLabor only
$150–$400
Door Adjustment / Repair
Fix sticking, squeaking, or misaligned door
1 hour – 2 hoursIncludes parts
$125–$250
Fixture Install (shelf, mount)
Mount shelves, TV bracket, towel bar, or hardware
30 min – 2 hoursIncludes parts
$75–$250
Multi-Task Visit (3-4 items)
Knock out several small jobs in one visit
3 hours – 5 hoursIncludes parts
$300–$550
Smoke/CO Detector Install
Replace or install smoke alarm or CO detector
30 min – 1 hourIncludes parts
$75–$150
Closet Shelving / Organizer
Install wire or laminate closet organizer system
2 hours – 4 hoursIncludes parts
$250–$600
Drywall Patch & Paint
Patch holes and touch up paint to match
1.5 hours – 3 hoursIncludes parts
$175–$325
Faucet Replacement
Swap kitchen or bath faucet — standard connections
1 hour – 2 hoursIncludes parts
$150–$350
Door & Window Repair
Fix broken latches, weatherstripping, or window hardware
1 hour – 3 hoursIncludes parts
$125–$350
Siding Repair
Replace damaged vinyl or wood siding sections
2 hours – 5 hoursIncludes parts
$225–$625

Common flat-rate jobs: TV mount $75–150, ceiling fan swap $125–250, faucet replacement $100–200, drywall patch $100–250, interior door rehang $75–175, single light fixture $75–150. Most handymen have a 1–2 hour minimum because every trip has a fixed cost — bundling several small items into one visit is the cheapest way to use a handyman.

Per-task price moves with material count, how high the ladder goes, and whether anything has to be opened up to get at the problem. The biggest savings come from bundling — calling once for six items is much cheaper than calling six times for one.

Get an exact quote for your project

Sourced from our pricing SOP — updated regularly

What we show up with

The equipment we bring is part of what separates a real job from a shortcut. Here's what to expect on a typical visit.

Oscillating multi-tool (Fein MultiMaster, Festool Vecturo, Bosch StarlockPlus)

Plunge-cuts drywall, scrapes caulk, undercuts door jambs, cuts trim flush, removes grout. The most-used tool on any handyman truck.

Cordless brushless drill + impact driver pair (DeWalt, Milwaukee M18, Festool TID)

DIY-able

Drill for clean holes (anchors, pilot holes), impact for fasteners (lag screws, deck screws, drywall screws). Using a drill for both is slow and strips heads; using an impact for clean holes wallows them out.

Self-leveling cross-line laser (Bosch GLL 3-80, Hilti PM 30-MG)

Sets horizontal and vertical reference for TV mounts, picture rails, shelf installations, and tile starter rows. Replaces 10 minutes of bubble-level work with one push of a button.

Bosch GLM laser distance measure

DIY-able

Measures room dimensions, ceiling heights, and diagonals in seconds without a second person holding the tape. Critical for fan-blade clearance, mount placement, and ordering trim quantities.

Drywall jack (panel lift) — rental

Holds a 4x8 sheet against a ceiling or high wall so one person can screw it off. Without one, ceiling drywall requires two people and a lot of dropped mud.

Stud finder with AC + metal detection (Franklin ProSensor 710, Bosch GMS 120)

DIY-able

Finds studs, joists, live wires, and metal pipes through drywall before anyone drills. The Franklin reads multiple stud edges at once — much faster than the older single-sensor models.

Multi-step taping knives (4", 6", 10", 12") + hawk

Drywall finishing is feather-with-wider-blades. The 4" sets the mud, the 6" first coat, the 10" feathers the second, the 12" finishes. A full set is what makes a patch disappear into the surrounding wall after paint — worth confirming the pro has the right knives if the patch is in a visible spot.

How a job goes

Punch list intake

24 hours

You send the full list with photos. Pro reviews, asks clarifying questions (heights, parts on hand, parking), bundles into a single visit estimate. For 4–6 mixed tasks, expect a quote within 24 hours.

What you see: A written estimate with hourly rate, estimated hours per task, material list, trip fee if any, and total range.

Arrival + walkthrough

15 min

On arrival, the pro walks the list with you in person, confirms scope, flags anything they want to check before starting (suspicious wiring, water stains, plaster vs. drywall), and lays drop cloths. 15 minutes.

What you see: A handshake-and-list confirmation, not a sales pitch. They open their toolbag once you point at the first task.

Tackle highest-friction tasks first

2–4 hours typical

Order matters. Anything that requires a hardware-store trip (missing part, wrong size, hidden condition) is identified first so the trip happens once. Then in-place work proceeds in parallel — paint can dry while drywall mud sets while the door reveal is being adjusted.

What you see: A pro moving through the house with purpose, not lingering on one task. Tools come out and go away in sequence.

Out-of-scope discoveries

As needed

If anything opens up and reveals an issue past handyman scope (no junction box behind the fixture, galvanized pipe inside the vanity, no header above the door opening), the pro stops, photographs, and explains the options — either skip that task for now or get a referral to the right licensed trade.

What you see: A photo on their phone, a clear explanation of what was found, and a referral to a licensed trade if the issue is past their scope.

Cleanup + walk-through

20–30 min

Drop cloths up, vacuum the work area (every truck has a shop vac), debris bagged. Walk each completed task with you. Get the punch-list signoff before invoicing.

What you see: The house left cleaner than they found it, drop cloths folded, dust wiped. Anything they could not finish is in writing.

Invoice + materials reconciliation

Same day

Itemized invoice: hours billed, material costs, trip fee if any, total. Payment on completion is standard for jobs under a day; check, card, and ACH are all common. One-year labor warranty on finish work is typical from branded services; solo pros vary — worth asking up front and getting it in writing.

What you see: An emailed PDF or printed invoice. Numbers should line up with the original estimate, with a clear note explaining any overage.

What to send when you reach out

Send us:

A complete bulleted list of every task you want done — not just the urgent one. Bundling is where the savings are.
Photos of each task, taken with enough context to see the wall, the height, and any obstructions.
Whether you have already bought the parts (fan, fixture, faucet, hardware) or need the pro to source them.
Ceiling height for any work overhead, especially fans, lights, and high-wall mounts.
Address and parking situation — paid parking, narrow streets, and walk-up units affect the trip time.

Helps a lot if you know it:

Age of the home (pre-1978 means lead-paint protocols may apply for any sanding/scraping; pre-1950 likely means plaster walls, not drywall).
For TV mounts: TV brand and model (so they can check mount compatibility) and whether you want cables in-wall.
For drywall patches: rough dimensions of each hole and the paint sheen (eggshell, satin, semi-gloss).
For door work: solid-core or hollow-core, and whether the door slab itself is the issue or the jamb.
Whether you have a preferred date or a hard deadline (party, move-in, listing inspection).

Worth flagging if you see any of these — they shape the diagnosis:

Aluminum wiring (silver-colored solid wire from the 60s-70s) — every fixture swap needs CO/ALR-rated devices, this affects the quote.
Knob-and-tube wiring still in service — anything past changing a light bulb on a K&T circuit is electrician scope.
Galvanized supply lines (gray, corroded, crusty fittings) — handyman scope ends at the shutoff; do not let them open these up.
Active water staining or recent leaks anywhere near the planned work — diagnose the source before any drywall closes back up.
Anything that has been "fixed" three times and keeps failing — there is an upstream cause; bring the pro in with that context.

Send your info

Permits, timing, and what's local to Cranston

Permits & regulations

Cranston permits are handled by the Department of Inspections in City Hall on Park Avenue, filed through the city's OpenGov portal. Projects over $1,000 generally require a permit and all electrical, plumbing, and mechanical work must be performed by RI-licensed contractors. The Edgewood Historic District requires Historical Commission review for exterior changes.

Permit authority: Cranston Department of Inspections — Building Inspection (https://www.cranstonri.gov/departments/building-and-public-works/building-inspection/)