What deck material should I pick for Rhode Island or Massachusetts?

For most NE homeowners, capped composite (Trex Transcend, TimberTech EDGE, AZEK Vintage) is the right answer. Cedar greys to silver in 18 months and rots at fasteners. Pressure-treated lasts 15-20 years if you seal it every 2-3 years, which almost nobody actually does — neglected PT cracks and cups within 4-5 years. Composite costs 1.5-2x in material but eliminates 25 years of maintenance and carries a 25-30 year warranty. If you want a real-wood look without the maintenance, thermally modified ash or pine (Thermory, Arbor Wood) is the premium alternative — looks like IPE at half the cost. Whichever surface you pick, insist on joist tape on every joist top edge. That is the rot point on every deck built in this climate.

Do I need a permit for my deck?

In MA, any deck more than 30" above grade requires a building permit and a Construction Supervisor License (CSL) holder of record. Most RI towns require a permit on any attached deck regardless of height because of the structural ledger attachment to the house. Ground-level floating decks below 30" off grade with no railing requirement may be permit-exempt in some towns but check with your building department first. The contractor pulls the permit on your behalf — that is part of the bid, not extra. A permitted deck gets a footing inspection before concrete pour and a final inspection at completion; both protect you and validate the work for insurance and resale.

What is the difference between a deck specialist and a general carpenter for this job?

A general carpenter who builds a deck once or twice a year knows enough to build a deck that looks right and stands up. A deck specialist runs through the IRC AM104 deck-attachment checklist as habit — proper ledger flashing, through-bolt or structural screw pattern at code spacing, Simpson DTT2Z lateral load devices, 42" frost-line footings, joist tape on every top edge, hidden-fastener spacing matched to the composite manufacturer's spec, railing post hold-downs. The generalist often misses two or three of those items because they are not top-of-mind. The visible deck looks identical at handoff. The difference shows up in year 10-15 when the substructure starts to fail on the generalist deck and the specialist deck still has another decade in it.

Can I just replace the deck boards on my old deck and keep the substructure?

Sometimes, but rarely without surprises. Once the deck boards come off, the joists are exposed and the verdict is honest. If the joists were never taped, there will be rot at the fastener lines along every joist top — usually requiring joist replacement or substantial sistering before new boards go down. If the ledger flashing failed, the ledger and often the rim joist are compromised. If the footings are undersized or have heaved, the substructure needs releveling or new piers. For decks under 10 years old that were built well, a surface-only refresh is reasonable. For decks 15+ years old built to 1990s standards, plan for a substantial substructure rebuild — the bid should carry an allowance that gets reconciled after demo.

What is the deal with the "lateral load device" code requirement?

After several high-profile deck collapses in the 2000s, the 2009 IRC added a requirement that decks attached to a house use a hold-down device (typically Simpson DTT2Z) that bolts the deck joists through the rim joist to the interior floor joists. The ledger-only attachment used in the 1990s could pull away from old or compromised rim joists under live load — a roomful of people at a party, a hot tub, accumulated snow. Two devices minimum on most decks, more on larger ones. Cost is about $40-80 each plus install time. Almost no deck built before 2010 has them, and many decks built since were built by generalists who never adopted the detail. Ask "how are you handling lateral load attachment?" — a specialist gives you a clear answer.

Cable, glass, composite, or wood railing — what should I pick?

Composite or PVC railing (Trex Transcend, AZEK Premier) is the most common pick on a composite deck — color-matched, low maintenance, $50-85/lf installed. Cable railing (Feeney CableRail, Atlantis Rail) is the modern choice for view-preserving installations — $65-110/lf and requires posts engineered for the cable tension and a top rail rigid enough to hold the cable spacing. Glass panel railing is the premium look at $110-200/lf with tempered panels and aluminum top rail. PT pickets and 2x4 rails are still the cheap floor at $25-45/lf but look dated next to anything else. Whatever you pick, code is 36" railing height in most NE towns (42" if more than 30" above grade in MA) with balusters spaced under 4" — confirm what your specific town enforces.

How long does a typical deck build take?

A straightforward 300 sqft attached composite deck on a typical site: 7-12 working days on the build, plus 1-2 weeks for permit and 1 week of buffer for the footing inspection wait. A new poured-concrete footing needs 7-10 days to cure before framing — helical piles skip that and are framing-ready same day. From signed bid to usable deck in southern New England, 4-8 weeks is normal during the busy season (April-July). A full rebuild including demo, ledger and rim repair, new footings, full substructure, surface, and railing on a 400 sqft deck is typically 3-4 weeks on site. Multi-level decks, integrated lighting, built-in seating, or under-deck drainage all add days. Weather delays in NE spring add anywhere from 0 to 2 weeks depending on luck.

Do I need to seal or maintain a composite deck?

No sealing. The polymer cap on modern capped composite is what makes it composite — it is engineered to not absorb moisture or stain. Maintenance is annual cleaning: rinse with a hose, scrub with a soft brush and a composite-safe cleaner (Defy, Corte-Clean) once or twice a year to remove pollen, leaf tannins, and grime. Avoid pressure washing above 1500 PSI on most composite — high pressure can damage the cap. PT and cedar decks are different — they need to be cleaned and sealed every 2-3 years (PT) or stained annually (cedar) to keep their color and prevent moisture damage. Hardwood decks (IPE, cumaru) need an annual oil if you want them to stay brown instead of greying.

Attleboro, MA

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How to build or repair a deck in Attleboro, MA

A deck is a small building bolted to the side of your house, not a wood floor outside. The bid that matters is the one that gets the substructure, attachment, and footings right — the surface boards are the cheap part of the conversation.

MA CSL + HIC, RI CRB Registered — Decks above 30" above grade are structural work in MA — they require a Construction Supervisor License (CSL) to pull the permit and a Home Improvement Contractor (HIC) registration to contract the job. RI requires Contractors Registration Board (CRB) registration on any job over $500.

Deck specialists, not generalists — A deck specialist runs through the IRC AM104 deck-attachment checklist as a habit — ledger flashing, through-bolt pattern, lateral load device, footing depth, joist tape, hidden fastener spacing. A general carpenter who builds a deck once a year often misses two or three of those.

NE climate-spec build — Joist tape on every top edge, hot-dipped or stainless fasteners rated for ACQ/MCA pressure treated, 42" footings to clear the frost line, capped composite or thermally modified wood as the default surface. The choices that make a deck last 25 years instead of 12 here.

Get a quote What it usually costs

What to know before you build a deck in Attleboro

Attleboro's downtown core and older neighborhoods feature Colonial Revival, Victorian, Cape Cod, and two-family homes from the early 1900s through mid-century. Briggs Corner and Camp Hebron shift toward 1970s–1990s ranches, split-levels, and larger colonials. Federal- and Colonial-era homes (late 1700s/early 1800s) command premium prices and require period-appropriate repair work.

Attleboro has typical inland southeastern Massachusetts weather — cold snowy winters, humid summers, and routine freeze-thaw cycles. Inland location reduces salt-air exposure compared with coastal towns but heating loads run longer.

How we price it

These are the factors that move a quote up or down. Knowing them helps you share the right context upfront so we can quote your specific situation accurately — and so you can compare bids on apples-to-apples scope.

Decking material tier

Primary driver

Pressure-treated southern yellow pine is the cheap floor and checks (splits) within 18 months in NE freeze-thaw — needs sealing every 2-3 years that almost no homeowner does. Cedar holds up better but greys to silver in a season and rots at every fastener. Capped composite (Trex Transcend, TimberTech AZEK, Fiberon Concordia) costs 1.5-2x the material but carries 25-30 year fade and stain warranties and eliminates the maintenance cycle. IPE and tropical hardwoods (cumaru, garapa) are the premium wood answer — 30+ year life, but they need pre-drilling, plug fasteners, and an annual oil if you want them to stay brown instead of grey. Match the surface to how much weekend time you want to spend on it.

Benchmark:PT $25–40/sqft · Cedar $35–55/sqft · Capped composite $50–80/sqft · IPE/hardwood $60–100/sqft

Height above grade & footings

Primary driver

A floating deck under 30" off grade can use surface-bearing blocks or shallow footings and skips the railing requirement entirely. A deck more than 30" off grade triggers code-required guardrails (36" residential, 42" common in MA), requires a building permit, and almost always means 42"-deep poured concrete piers or helical piles to clear the NE frost line. A second-story deck off a kitchen adds stair runs, structural posts up to deck height (often 8-12 ft), and lateral load attention because it is hanging off a wall 10+ ft in the air.

Benchmark:Footings $250–550 per pier · Helical piles $450–850 each · Stair runs $200–400 per riser

Substructure & attachment quality

Primary driver

This is the line item that separates a 12-year deck from a 25-year deck and is where you should focus the bid conversation. PT joists at 16" on-center (12" on-center for some composite spans), joist tape on every top edge, structural screws (GRK RSS or FastenMaster LedgerLok) or through-bolts for the ledger, code-compliant lateral load device (DTT2Z or equivalent), Z-flashing plus a peel-and-stick membrane behind the ledger, hot-dipped or stainless fasteners rated for ACQ/MCA. None of this shows in photos. All of it is what fails in 10 years if a corner gets cut.

Benchmark:Joist tape $200–400 in materials · Lateral load device $40–80 each · GRK ledger screws $1.50–3 each

Railing system

Secondary

PT pickets and 2x4 rails are the cheap floor and look like 1995. Composite or PVC railing (Trex Transcend, AZEK Premier) is the most common modern choice and ties cleanly to a composite deck. Cable railing (Feeney CableRail, Atlantis Rail) maximizes the view and adds $65-110/lf installed because the posts have to be engineered for the cable tension. Glass panel railing is the premium look — $110-200/lf with the tempered panels and aluminum top rail. Code is 36" residential height in most NE towns (42" if more than 30" above grade in MA), with balusters spaced under 4" — confirm what your specific town enforces.

Benchmark:PT railing $25–45/lf · Composite $50–85/lf · Cable $65–110/lf · Glass $110–200/lf

Demo & substructure condition

Secondary

A "replace just the deck boards" job sounds simple and almost never is. Once the surface comes off, the joists are exposed and the verdict on the substructure is honest. Rotted ledger, soft joists at the screw lines, missing or failed flashing, undersized footings that have shifted — any of these convert a $5-10/sqft surface swap into a partial or full rebuild. Reputable bids carry an allowance for substructure remediation that gets reconciled after demo. If a bid commits to a fixed price on a deck older than 12 years without seeing the substructure, that price has surprises built in for one side or the other.

Benchmark:Demo $5–10/sqft · Ledger replacement $400–900 · Joist sistering $35–65 per joist

Permits & inspections

Situational

In MA, any deck more than 30" above grade requires a building permit and a CSL holder of record — and a footing inspection before pour, plus a final inspection. Most RI towns require a permit on any attached deck regardless of height because it involves structural ledger attachment. Permit fees run $150-500 in most southern New England towns. A deck-specialist bid lists the permit fee separately, makes clear who pulls the permit (the contractor, always), and bakes in the footing inspection wait into the schedule.

Benchmark:Permit $150–500 · Architectural review (if HOA) $200–800 · Footing inspection scheduling adds 1-3 days

Built-in features (benches, planters, lighting, screening)

Situational

Built-in bench seating runs $90-180/lf and ties into the deck framing for stability. Integrated planters add $200-450 per box depending on size and material. Low-voltage deck lighting (post-cap lights, riser lights, under-rail strip) runs $850-2,500 for a typical deck plus the transformer. Under-deck drainage systems (TimberTech DrySpace, Trex RainEscape) for a usable dry space below run $8-14/sqft of deck above. These are easier to scope into the original build than added after.

Benchmark:Built-in bench $90–180/lf · Lighting package $850–2,500 · Under-deck drainage $8–14/sqft

Project sizes we handle

Three scopes that cover almost everything in this trade. We'll help you place your project on the right tier based on the property, what you've already tried, and how long you plan to stay.

Pressure-treated with PT railing

$25–40/sqft installed

Standard PT southern yellow pine 5/4 decking on 2x8 or 2x10 PT joists at 16" on-center. PT 2x4 rails with PT pickets. Hot-dipped galvanized fasteners. Surface-screwed (visible screws) decking — quick to install, quick to replace boards. Code-compliant footings and ledger attachment. Expected life: 15-20 years if sealed every 2-3 years, 10-12 if neglected.

PT southern yellow pine 5/4 deck boards
PT 2x joists with hot-dipped galvanized hangers
PT 4x4 rail posts, 2x4 rails, square pickets
GRK or FastenMaster structural screws for ledger
Z-flashing + peel-and-stick at ledger

Best for: Rental properties, short-term hold (under 5 years), budget rebuilds where the existing footprint and footings are sound. Owners willing to maintain — annual cleaning, seal every 2-3 years.

Capped composite with composite railing

$50–65/sqft installed

The southern New England default. Trex Enhance / TimberTech PRO / Fiberon Good Life capped composite decking on PT 2x joists with joist tape on every top edge. Hidden fasteners (Cortex or Camo system) for a clean surface with no exposed screws. Composite or PVC railing in a matching color. Stainless or coated structural fasteners for the ledger, code-compliant lateral load device (DTT2Z), 42" poured concrete or helical pile footings. Expected life: 25-30 years with effectively no maintenance.

Trex Enhance, TimberTech PRO, or Fiberon Good Life decking
Joist tape (Trex Protect, Cor-A-Vent ZIP Strip, or Grace Vycor) on every joist top
Hidden fastener system (Cortex, Camo, or Tiger Claw)
Composite or PVC railing system (Trex, TimberTech, AZEK)
Simpson DTT2Z lateral load devices, GRK ledger screws
42" poured concrete piers or helical piles

Best for: Primary residence, families that plan to stay 7+ years, anyone who would rather use their weekends than re-seal a deck every 2-3 years. The sweet spot of cost vs longevity in southern New England.

Premium composite or hardwood with cable/glass railing

$75–110/sqft installed

AZEK Vintage Collection or Trex Transcend / Lineage with wirebrushed grain that reads as real wood from 4 ft away. Or IPE / cumaru / thermally modified ash on a steel-reinforced substructure with concealed perimeter fasteners. Cable railing (Feeney CableRail) or tempered glass panel railing for the view. Integrated low-voltage lighting on posts, risers, and under top rail. Under-deck drainage system for a usable dry patio below. 30+ year structural life and a deck that does not visibly age.

AZEK Vintage, Trex Transcend/Lineage, IPE, or thermally modified ash
Stainless or composite-engineered substructure where conditions warrant
Concealed perimeter fasteners (Cortex), pre-drilled and plugged hardwood
Feeney CableRail or tempered glass panel railing system
Low-voltage lighting (FX Luminaire, Trex DeckLighting) on transformer
TimberTech DrySpace or Trex RainEscape under-deck drainage

Best for: High-end primary residences, projects where the deck is the design feature, owners who want a no-maintenance outdoor room that ages well. Common on lake or water-view properties where the railing should disappear.

What we reach for and why

The materials and techniques behind a job that lasts — so you know what's in the quote and why it's there.

Joist tape on every joist top edge

material

Self-adhering butyl tape (Trex Protect, Cor-A-Vent ZIP Strip, Grace Vycor Deck Protector) applied to the top of every joist and beam before decking goes down. Seals around every screw or hidden-fastener penetration — which is where rot starts on every untaped deck in this climate. Untaped PT joists rot from the top down within 12-15 years at the fastener lines, even when the boards above look fine.

Pro tip: This is the single highest-ROI line item on the whole deck — $200-400 in materials that adds a decade to substructure life. Specify the brand in the bid (Trex Protect or Cor-A-Vent ZIP Strip are the common picks in NE). If a deck bid does not call out joist tape explicitly, raise it before signing.

Through-bolted ledger with proper flashing

technique

The ledger is the board that bolts the deck to the house and it is where catastrophic deck failures start — almost every collapsed-deck news story is a ledger failure. Code-correct attachment uses 1/2" through-bolts with washers on both sides (not lag bolts, which strip out of old rim joists) at the spacing called out in IRC table R507.9.1.3. Behind the ledger: peel-and-stick membrane on the sheathing, Z-flashing tucked under the siding and over the ledger top, drainage gap. The ledger sits on the flashing, not on the siding.

Pro tip: Lag bolts in a ledger are a 1990s detail that the code moved away from in 2009. If a bid says "lag bolts" for ledger attachment, push back — through-bolts or specialized structural screws (GRK RSS, FastenMaster LedgerLok at correct spacing) are the current standard.

Lateral load attachment (DTT2Z)

material

A small steel device (Simpson DTT2Z is the common one) that bolts the deck joists to the floor joists inside the house through the rim joist. Code-required since 2009 IRC and updated in 2015 because ledger-only attachments are pulling away from rim joists during live loads (parties, hot tubs, snow). Two devices minimum on most decks, more on larger ones. About $40-80 each plus install time. Almost never present on decks built before 2010, often missed on decks built by general carpenters since.

Pro tip: A deck-specialist bid mentions lateral load devices by name. Ask "how are you handling the lateral load attachment?" and you will know fast whether the pro reads current code or builds the way they did in 1998.

Capped composite decking (Trex / TimberTech / Fiberon)

material

Composite boards with a polymer cap shell wrapped around a wood-flour and recycled-plastic core. The cap resists stain, fade, and moisture — uncapped composite from the early 2000s rotted from the inside out and is what gave the category a bad name. Modern capped products carry 25-30 year fade and stain warranties. Three tiers worth knowing: entry capped (Trex Enhance, TimberTech PRO, Fiberon Good Life), mid (Trex Transcend, TimberTech EDGE), premium with realistic grain (AZEK Vintage, Trex Lineage, Fiberon Concordia).

Pro tip: In southern New England, capped composite is the right answer for most homeowners. The 1.5-2x material premium over PT is recovered in 8-10 years of avoided sealing and board replacement. Just confirm the deck has good airflow underneath — composite gets hot in summer (130-150°F surface temp in direct sun is normal) and stays hot longer than wood.

Hidden fastener systems (Cortex, Camo, Tiger Claw)

technique

Three approaches to a clean deck surface with no visible screws. Cortex uses a matched plug system — screw goes through the deck board, a tapered plug made of the same composite covers the hole. Camo uses a guide jig and angled screws that drive into the side of the deck board, hidden by the next board. Tiger Claw clips drop into the joists between boards. All three work. Cortex is the most common spec for high-end composite work because the plugs are nearly invisible after a season.

Pro tip: The choice between Cortex and Camo is mostly the carpenter's preference. Ask which they use and look at a finished example. Tiger Claw clips require slotted-edge boards (most modern composite ships ready for it) and are fastest but lose the option to replace a single board without lifting several.

Helical pile footings vs. poured concrete piers

technique

Traditional footings: dig a 42"-deep hole, drop a Sonotube, pour concrete, set a post base. Cheap, reliable, ugly hole until poured. Helical piles: hydraulically screwed into the ground to engineered depth (often 8-15 ft, well past frost), bracket bolted to the top. More expensive per pier ($450-850 vs $250-550) but no dig pile, no curing wait, immediate framing start, and load-tested at install. Worth the premium on sites with high water table, ledge, tight access, or where you cannot afford to wait for a footing inspection and concrete cure.

Pro tip: For a typical southern New England deck, poured concrete is fine and a $300-500 saving per pier matters. Helical piles earn their cost when the site is tight (no excavator access), the soil is sandy or wet, or there is bedrock within 4 ft of grade making augering miserable.

Thermally modified wood (Thermory, Arbor Wood)

material

Cooked-in-an-oven softwood (ash, pine, oak) with the sugars and resins driven out at 400-450°F. Dimensionally stable like a composite but actual wood — looks like IPE at half the cost, lasts 30+ years above ground without staining. The compelling alternative to composite for owners who refuse plastic but want low maintenance. Ages to a silver grey unless oiled annually, similar to teak.

Pro tip: Thermally modified ash is what to specify if you want a deck that looks like real wood in 20 years instead of greyed cedar or a faded composite. The material premium over cedar is real ($45-65/sqft installed for thermally modified ash vs $35-55 for cedar), but the maintenance gap closes the spread within 5-7 years.

What to watch for

A short list of the things that actually matter for safety, code, and your peace of mind. Worth confirming with any pro before you sign — we expect these questions and we're happy you ask.

No permit on a deck more than 30" above grade or any deck attached to the house

In MA, any deck above 30" above grade requires a building permit and a CSL holder of record. Most RI towns require a permit on any attached deck regardless of height because of the structural ledger attachment. Unpermitted structural work can void homeowner's insurance claims if the deck fails and complicates the title at resale. Permitted work also gets a footing inspection before pour and a final inspection — both protect you. The contractor pulls the permit; that is part of the bid, not extra.

No joist tape on a new deck in New England

Composite or wood decking sitting on untaped PT joists rots from the top down at every screw hole, regardless of how good the surface looks. In NE freeze-thaw, this is a 10-12 year failure mode that shows up just as the deck surface warranty starts to matter. Joist tape ($200-400 in materials) is the single highest-ROI item on a deck. If the bid does not specify joist tape by brand (Trex Protect, Cor-A-Vent ZIP Strip, Grace Vycor), raise it before signing.

Ledger lag-bolted to the rim joist instead of through-bolted (or structural screws at correct spacing)

Lag bolts in a ledger are a 1990s detail that the code moved past in 2009 IRC because lags strip out of old or compromised rim joists during live load. Modern code requires 1/2" through-bolts with washers on both sides or specialized structural screws (GRK RSS, FastenMaster LedgerLok) at the spacing in IRC table R507.9.1.3. A ledger failure is how decks collapse and how people get hurt. This one is non-negotiable.

No lateral load device (DTT2Z or equivalent) mentioned in the bid

Code-required since 2009 IRC. A small steel hold-down (typically Simpson DTT2Z) bolts the deck joists through the rim joist to the interior floor joists. Without it, the deck can pull away from the house under live load — the failure mode that drove the code change. Two devices minimum on most decks. About $40-80 each plus install time. An experienced deck pro mentions these by name; a generalist often misses them entirely.

Undersized footings or footings shallower than 42" in southern New England

Frost line in RI and MA runs 36-48" depending on town — most jurisdictions require 42" minimum on deck footings. Shallower footings heave in the freeze-thaw cycle, lifting posts and racking the deck out of level within 2-3 winters. Footing size also matters: a 10" Sonotube is the minimum for a typical residential deck post and most jurisdictions want 12" or a flared bigfoot base. A bid that shows post locations without depth and diameter spec is hiding ambiguity that the framing inspector will catch.

No proof of liability insurance and workers' comp

Deck work happens at height with structural loads, power tools, and concrete. Injuries and property damage are not rare. A worker hurt on your property without coverage can expose the homeowner. Ask for a certificate of insurance naming you as additional insured — any legitimate deck contractor has this ready and shares it without resistance.

What else might come up

Most projects touch more than one trade. Here's where this one usually overlaps with others — so you can plan ahead instead of scrambling.

Mason / Concrete

— Footing pours, frost walls under freestanding decks, replacement of stair landings.

Deck footings to 42" below frost line are either dug-and-poured concrete piers or helical piles. Carpenters do not do concrete pours — the mason goes in first, pours and cures, then the framer arrives. On a freestanding deck or one with stair landings on grade, the masonry and the framing have to be sequenced so the carpenter is not waiting on cure time mid-project.

Sider / Roofer

— Ledger replacement, deck-to-house tie-in, fascia trim around the new deck.

The ledger bolts through siding into the rim joist behind it. Replacing a rotted ledger means pulling siding in that bay, repairing or replacing the rim, installing peel-and-stick membrane and Z-flashing, then re-siding. On a full rebuild the siding contractor either does the patch or coordinates with the deck pro. A deck attached without lifting the siding to flash properly is the source of most ledger rot.

Electrician

— Deck lighting, exterior outlets, hot tub circuits.

Low-voltage deck lighting (post caps, riser lights, under-rail strip) runs off a transformer that needs an exterior outlet. Hot tubs require a dedicated 240V circuit with a disconnect within sight — code work that has to be scheduled with the deck build, not after. Easier to chase wires during framing than to retrofit through a finished deck.

Landscaper

— Grading around new footings, planting beds against the deck, stone patios under or adjacent to the deck.

Deck construction tears up grade around the foundation. Re-grading for drainage away from the house, planting against the new footprint, and any patio work under or adjacent to the deck is landscaper or hardscape work. Sequence it after the deck is framed and inspected but before final finish so the landscaper is not working around finished decking.

Painter / Stainer

— For wood decks needing initial stain or seal, exterior trim painting at the deck-to-house transition.

Capped composite needs no finish. Cedar and PT decks need to dry to 15-20% moisture content (typically 1-3 months after install on PT, 2-4 weeks on cedar) before the first stain or seal coat. Schedule the stainer to come back in that window — finishing too early traps moisture in the wood and the coating fails. IPE and other oily hardwoods need a specific penetrating oil (Penofin, IPE Oil) if you want to slow the silvering.

$25–80per sqft installed

Pressure-treated runs $25–40/sqft, cedar $35–55/sqft, capped composite (Trex, TimberTech, AZEK) $50–80/sqft, IPE and tropical hardwoods $60–100/sqft — all installed and including standard substructure. Railings add $40–110 per linear foot depending on system. Demo of an existing deck runs $5–10/sqft on top.

Surface material is the headline number, but the swings inside each tier come from height above grade (footings and stairs scale fast), railing system, substructure condition, and whether the ledger attachment has to be reworked. A 12x16 ground-level floating deck and a 12x16 second-story deck off a kitchen are the same square footage and not the same job.

See what drives price

What we show up with

The equipment we bring is part of what separates a real job from a shortcut. Here's what to expect on a typical visit.

Deck board spacing jig (Camo Marksman or Trex Universal)

DIY-able

Sets consistent 1/8" to 3/16" gaps between deck boards as they are fastened, without measuring each one. Drops over the joist between boards and indexes the next board off the last. A board-by-board jig is the difference between a deck with dead-even reveals and one where the gaps wander by the time you reach the end of a run.

Hidden fastener installation tool (Camo Drive, Cortex setting tool)

Camo Drive is a guide jig that holds the screw at the right angle to drive through the side of the deck board into the joist — invisible from above. Cortex tool sets the matched composite plug flush after the screw goes through the board face. Both are system-specific tools that a deck specialist owns and a generalist does not.

Footing auger (one-man or two-man gas auger, 10"-12" bit)

Digs the 42"-deep footing holes for deck posts. Mid-size two-man auger (BE Power 10HP, Stihl BT 131) is the standard for residential deck work. Hand-digging a 42" hole with a clamshell post-hole digger is possible but punishing — anyone building decks for a living has an auger.

Laser level (rotary or self-leveling line laser)

Sets consistent joist heights across the deck span, sets stair-stringer cuts, levels post tops before cutting. A rotary laser (Topcon, DeWalt) is fastest for whole-deck layout; a self-leveling cross-line laser (Bosch GLL) is sufficient for smaller decks. Deck specialists work to 1/8" tolerance on substructure; you cannot do that with a string and a torpedo level.

Joist tape roller and applicator

DIY-able

Applies the butyl joist tape (Trex Protect, Cor-A-Vent) without stretching it or trapping bubbles. A J-roller seats the tape into the joist top. The tape goes down before any decking; if you see a deck installer rolling joist tape on every joist before setting boards, that is a deck pro who builds for longevity.

Cordless impact driver + 1/2" socket adapters for through-bolts

Drives the 1/2" through-bolts that secure the ledger to the house framing — and the structural screws (GRK RSS, FastenMaster LedgerLok) on alternate attachments. A mid-torque impact (DeWalt DCF887, Milwaukee 2853) drives these in seconds; a standard drill stalls and over-spins. Distinct from the drill driver used for deck-board fasteners.

Tin snips + bending brake for site-formed Z-flashing

Cuts and bends the aluminum or copper Z-flashing that goes behind the ledger and tucks under the siding. Site-formed flashing fits the specific gap better than off-the-shelf stock. A deck specialist owns a hand seamer and a small brake; a generalist often uses pre-formed stock and trims to fit.

How a job goes

Site walk, measure, and structural assessment

60-90 min

Measure the proposed footprint, height above grade at lowest and highest points, ledger location and siding type. For rebuilds: assess existing substructure condition — pull a deck board if needed, evaluate joist soundness, check the ledger flashing, document any visible rot. Discuss material preferences, railing style, lighting, built-in features.

What you see: The pro on the deck and under it (if there is room) with a flashlight, tape measure, and notepad. For rebuilds: photos of the substructure conditions before any quote.

Detailed bid with material spec and allowance for surprises

3-7 business days to receive

Written bid with material spec called out by brand and series (decking, railing, fasteners, joist tape), permit fee broken out, footing depth and diameter specified, lateral load device count, ledger attachment method, allowance line for substructure remediation if it is a rebuild. Timeline tied to permit lead time and material availability.

What you see: A bid you can read line by line. Material brands, not "premium composite." Permit fee as a line item. Substructure allowance with a clear unit price for sistered joists or ledger replacement so reconciliation after demo is honest.

Permits, Dig Safe call-in, and material order

1-3 weeks

Pull building permit through the town (typically 1-2 weeks in most RI/MA towns). Call Dig Safe (MA: 811) or 811 (RI) for utility mark-out at least 72 hours before any digging — required by law. Order materials with attention to lead time — most stock composite is on the shelf, but specific colors and railing systems can be 2-4 weeks. Schedule footing inspection if local jurisdiction requires.

What you see: A copy of the building permit posted at the site. Painted utility mark-outs on the ground where digging will happen. Material samples delivered for color confirmation before bulk order.

Demo (if rebuild), excavation, and footings

3-7 days plus cure time

For rebuilds: remove old deck surface and substructure, evaluate exposed framing, reconcile substructure allowance based on actual conditions. Auger footing holes to 42" depth, set Sonotubes or install helical piles. Footing inspection if required (wait 1-3 days for inspector). Pour concrete and cure (7-10 days) — or skip the cure if using helical piles.

What you see: Holes dug, Sonotubes set, photos of footing pads at the correct depth before concrete pour. If using helical piles: load-test certifications. Concrete trucks on site for pour day.

Framing, ledger, flashing, and joist tape

3-7 days

Pull siding above ledger location, install peel-and-stick membrane, set ledger with through-bolts or structural screws at code spacing, install Z-flashing tucked under siding and over ledger top, install Simpson DTT2Z lateral load devices through to interior floor joists. Frame posts, beams, joists at 12" or 16" on-center per the decking spec. Apply joist tape to every joist and beam top edge before any decking lands.

What you see: Siding lifted at the ledger, peel-and-stick visible on the sheathing, Z-flashing tucked properly under siding before re-siding. Joist tape on every joist top before any deck boards go down. Lateral load devices visible inside the house (basement or crawlspace).

Decking, railing, stairs, finishing

4-10 days plus inspection

Install decking with consistent 1/8"-3/16" gaps using a spacing jig, hidden fasteners per system spec, picture-frame border if specified. Install railing posts with proper hold-downs, top rail, balusters or cable/glass infill at code spacing (under 4"). Build stairs with code-compliant rise (7" max) and run (11" min) and graspable handrail. Final inspection by the building department before sign-off.

What you see: Decking gaps consistent end to end. Railings rigid when leaned on — no wobble. Stairs comfortable under foot, handrail at proper graspable height (30-38" above tread nosing). Building inspector visit and signed inspection card.

What to send when you reach out

Send us:

Square footage and shape (with rough sketch or photo) — rectangular, L-shape, wraparound, multi-level.
Height above grade at the lowest point and at the highest point — this drives footings, railings, stairs, and permit triggers.
Attached or freestanding — if attached, photo of the wall where the ledger will go (siding type, any windows or doors in the bay).
Material preference if you have one (PT, cedar, capped composite, hardwood) or budget range so the pro can recommend.
For rebuilds: photo of the current deck from above and below, particularly the ledger-to-house transition and any visible rot.

Helps a lot if you know it:

Photos of decks you like — Pinterest, neighbor, magazine. Helps the pro understand whether you want clean modern, traditional New England, cable-rail-and-glass, or rustic.
How you actually use the space — dinner table for 8, lounge chairs, hot tub, grill area. Drives layout, lighting, and built-in features.
Whether you want under-deck dry space below (changes substructure spec and adds drainage system).
HOA architectural review requirements if applicable — most NE HOAs require a submittal with railing style, color, and footprint for any deck over 100 sqft.
Timeline flexibility — deck specialists in southern New England book 6-12 weeks out from April through July.

Worth flagging if you see any of these — they shape the diagnosis:

Soft spots in current deck boards, sagging, or visible mold/rot on joists — structural assessment before any cosmetic scope.
Dark staining or peeling paint on the siding above the ledger — water has been getting behind the flashing for years, ledger and rim are almost certainly compromised.
Posts visibly tilted or no longer plumb — footings have heaved or shifted; the deck likely needs new footings, not just new surface.
Wobble or sway in the railing when leaned on — railing post attachment is failing (almost always a wood-rot or fastener issue at the rim).
Insect activity at the ledger or post bases — carpenter ants or termites in deck framing means pest control before any rebuild.

Send your info

Permits, timing, and what's local to Attleboro

Permits & regulations

Attleboro's Building Inspection department is open Monday–Friday 8:00–4:30 (Tuesdays until 6:00) with online permitting available. The State Building Code requires permit-application review within 30 days of filing, and the department conducts staged inspections through construction. Permits cover new construction, alteration, repair, demolition, change of use, and any equipment regulated by the state building code.

Permit authority: Attleboro Building Inspection Department (https://www.cityofattleboro.us/167/Building-Inspection)

What's local to Attleboro

Mass Save heat-pump and weatherization rebates apply, and the commuter-rail-adjacent downtown has a meaningful share of older two-family homes that periodically need fire-separation and electrical-service upgrades.